Few things give wine critics or wine lovers more pleasure than the discovery of a winery, large or small, that is obviously up and coming. So it is with Vitkin, a boutique producer whose first wines were from the 2002 vintage, and is rapidly showing itself capable of releasing consistently high-quality and interesting wines. Located on Moshav Kfar Vitkin on the central coastal plain, winemaker Assaf Paz relies on grapes from vintners in the Jerusalem hills as well as several other parts of the country. The winery currently produces 25,000 to 30,000 bottles annually, and recently has released five new wines. To locate the store nearest you selling these wines, call (09) 866-3505.

As always, a "K" indicates wines that are kosher.

Vitkin, Carignan 2004: Deep purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins now integrating well to reveal spicy wood, earthy minerals and blackberry and plum fruits. These are overlayed nicely with a pleasing gamey sweetness that lingers on the long finish. Drink now through 2010. NIS 85. Score 90.

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Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2004: Deep, almost impenetrable royal purple in color, this blend of 90-percent Cabernet Franc and 10-percent Petit Verdot shows fine balance between wood, moderately firm tannins and herbal-fruity characteristics. On first attack are pepper and spicy wood flavors, followed by black currants, plum and blackberry fruits. All are supported by hints of cloves, oriental spices and, on the long and mouth-filling finish, freshly picked Mediterranean herbs. Best 2008 to 2011. NIS 96. Score 90.

Vitkin, Pinot Noir, 2004: Reflects its 14 months in small oak casks with spicy wood and soft tannins. Dark cherry red and medium-bodied, with black cherry, currant and purple plum fruits. Shows hints of chocolate and light earthiness. Drink now through 2008. NIS 75. Score 87.

Vitkin, Classic, 2004: Aged in barriques for 10 months, this medium-bodied, well-balanced, softly tannic blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan shows appealing red berries and cherries on first attack, which turn to currants, spring flowers and spices that linger nicely. Drink now. NIS 68. Score 86.

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2005: Golden straw in color, this medium-bodied and deeply aromatic white wine shows appealing flowery and citrus aromas and, on the palate, finely balancing acidity and citrus, melon and green gage plum flavors. All this comes with a hint of the oily aromas that give the wines of Alsace their great charm. Drink now through 2008. NIS 75. Score 89.

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Upper Galilee, Regional, 2004: Full-bodied, with soft tannins and spicy wood that comes together nicely with wild berry, black cherry and plum fruits on a licorice- and vanilla-rich background. Drink now through 2008. NIS 58. Score 87. K

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Givat Hachalukim, 2004: Deep garnet toward purple, medium-bodied with somewhat chunky tannins that give the wine a country style. On the nose and palate are generous currant and blackberry fruits, which come together with spicy oak and a light hint of earthiness that has come to typify this wine. Drink now through 2008. NIS 70. Score 87. K

Tzora, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Light golden straw in color, light and lively on the palate and with appealing aromas and flavors of citrus and summer fruits. Straightforward and refreshing. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 86. K

Other local wines

Odem Mountain, Merlot, 2004: Dark garnet toward purple, medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins already integrating well and generous ripe plum, black cherry and berry fruits backed up nicely by hints of spices and vanilla. Drink now through 2008. NIS 105. Score 87.

La Terra Promessa, Zinfandel, 2004: Medium-bodied, with chunky country-style tannins and light wood influence. On the nose and palate are violets, hints of meatiness and an appealing hint of brett to complement blackberry, cherry and cassis fruits. Drink now through 2008. NIS 75. Score 86.

Efrat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2004: Medium-bodied, with moderate wood influences, this soft, round and generous wine shows plum, red currant and spices on the nose and palate as well as a touch of herbs on the finish. Drink now. NIS 78. Score 86. K

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marom Galil, Single, 2003: Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with gripping tannins and generous spicy oak that balance well with black and red currant fruits. Somewhat one-dimensional and short. Drink now. NIS 80. Score 85.