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Wine and Spirits / White for summer, Part One
By Daniel Rogov

With summer fully on us, it is only natural that we turn more of our attention from red to white wines. Made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Gewurtztraminer and other grapes of the noblest varieties, white wines can be as complex as reds. Equally important, partly because they are often lighter in body, crisply dry and have finely tuned acidity to add a sense of liveliness and partly because they are served cold, they can be far more refreshing during days of oppressive heat and humidity. Following are reviews of previously unreviewed local white wines available in local shops. The first of two parts.

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Light golden straw with a green tint, developed primarily in stainless steel and partly in older barriques for 3-4 months. Fresh and crisp, with citrus, kiwi and gooseberry, with light hints of oyster shells and seawater. Lovely! Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 91. Kosher.
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Yatir, Viognier, 2008: Unoaked, a juicy wine showing pear, peach and greengage plum supported by notes of fennel seed and peach pits, all coming together in a long, harmonious and near-creamy finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 83. Score 91. Kosher.

Tzora Vineyards, Blanc, Neve Ilan, 2008: Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes, developing in French oak, 40% of which are new, and partly in stainless steel vats, drinking quite nicely. Showing medium-bodied, with fine acidity and minerality. On first attack tropical and summer fruits followed by citrus notes, all on a lightly spicy background. Fresh, lively and complex, lingering nicely on the palate, an intriguing Chardonnay wine. Drink now-2011. NIS 80. Score 91. Kosher.

Sea Horse, Chenin Blanc, James, 2008: A surprisingly full-bodied Chenin Blanc but what a happy surprise; this rich and stylish wine is on its way to showing a tempting array of fig, white peach, almond, mineral and cardamom notes, all on a background of heather and minerals. If Sea Horse's 2007 Chenin Blanc recalled the better dry wines of this varietal from South Africa, this one would make a fine competitor to a wellmade French Vouvray. Drinking nicely now but best from mid-2010-2014. NIS 80. Score 91.

Dalton, Viognier, Reserve, 2008: Light gold, fermented with wild yeasts and highly aromatic. Rich, ripe and generous, showing appealing honeyed nectarine and pineapple with a hint of pepper. Rich and harmonious. Drink now-2013. NIS 74. Score 91. Kosher.

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2007: Gold, with green and orange tints, deeply floral, full-bodied and with generous but not overpowering oak that parts comfortably to reveal a complex array of citrus peel, summer fruits, hazelnuts, vanilla and crisp minerals. Lively and complex, opening nicely at this stage and showing a near creamy personality, with a welcome note of bitterness to enchant. Drink now-2011. NIS 150. Score 90. Kosher.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2007: Developed partly in barriques, partly in stainless steel for 11 months, a medium-bodied, crisp, fresh and aromatic wine. Freshly dampened golden-straw in color, showing a gentle hand with the wood, with the nose and palate opening with hints of honey, flaky pastry and minerals, and goes on to show yellow plum and citrus blossoms. Well structured, long and elegant. As the wine develops in bottles look for a gentle honeyed and creamy hint to creep in. Drink now-2011. NIS 90. Score 90. Kosher.

Golan Heights Winery, Gewurztraminer, Yarden, 2008: The color of freshly dampened straw, showing medium-bodied with traditional Gewurztraminer spices, litchi and floral notes. In the background ripe peach and a note of citrus peel and finishing with notes of rose petals and minerals. Even though categorized as off-dry, there is a bare hint of sweetness, tantalizing and refreshing. Drink now-2011. NIS 55. Score 90. Kosher.

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2006: Light gold in color, opens with a floral nose and goes on to reveal apricot, grapefruit, bitter orange peel and notes of green apples. Since release has come to show traditional Riesling traits - spicy and long, with the flowers of Alsace and the petrol note of the Rhine. Drink now-2012.NIS 75. Score 90.

Flam, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 2008: As always, an unoaked blend, this year of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay. Crisply fresh and aromatic, showing tropical and citrus fruit along with citrus flowers and flinty minerals. Fine balance here between fruits and acidity to make the wine both lively and fascinating. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 70. Score 90.

Galil Mountain, Avivim, 2007: Medium-bodied, light golden straw in color, a blend of 69% Viognier and 31% Chardonay, those aged on their lees in new French oak barriques for 9 months. Youthful and zesty, with lightly spicy cedarwood notes highlighting am array of tropical fruits, pears and honeydew melon Lurking comfortably in the background, a hint of red grapefruit. Drink now. NIS 75. Score 90. Kosher.

Golan Heights Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Yarden, 2008: Light golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, a crisply refreshing wine with just enough complexity to catch our attention. On the nose and palate generous green apple, lime and grapefruit, complemented nicely by hints of pine needles and fresh-cut grass, all lingering nicely on the finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 55. Score 89. Kosher.

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008: Made from 25-year-old vines, unoaked, light golden straw in color, showing freshly aromatic and on the nose and palate citrus, tropical fruit and citrus peel notes. Not a complex wine but one that is lively and remarkably full of flavor and charm. As good as a cocktail party offering as with food. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 89. Kosher.

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Private Collection, 2008: Light golden straw in color with green and orange tints, medium-bodied, with citrus and ripe peaches on the nose and palate, supported nicely by a hint of fresh-cut grass. Straightforward and refreshing, a very good quaffer. Drink now. About NIS 30. Score 87. Kosher.

Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2008: Golden straw in color, with a light wood influence and fine acidity that highlight flavors and aromas of citrus, mango and pineapple on a lightly peppery background. Round, refreshing and complex enough to grab the attention. Drink now-2011. NIS 44. Score 88. Kosher.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Unoaked Chardonnay, 2007: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with crisp acidity to support appealing tropical and citrus fruits on a background of light, near-flinty minerals and finishing with a hint of white pepper. Calls to mind Petit Chablis. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 90. Score 88. Kosher.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Blended with a small quantity of Semillon, the wine oak-aged in small part, showing light gold in color with lively and crisp acidity. Opens with notes of kiwi, guava and grapefruit supported nicely by light hints of freshly cut grass, all with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Drink now. NIS 74. Score 88. Kosher.

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2008: Reflecting its several months in oak with gentle hints of spices, a medium-full-bodied white showing an appealing array of peach, pear and citrus backed up nicely by lively acidity. Lively and with an appealing note of complexity. Drink now-2011. NIS 52. Score 88. Kosher.
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