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Wine and Spirits / They come from a land down under
By Daniel Rogov

Boutique importers come and boutique importers go, but it seems fairly certain that since they first started bringing wines from Australia in 2006, Mersch is here to stay.

This small importer seems sometimes enamored of the kinds of red wines that wine taster Robert Parker so often adores - blockbusters high in alcohol and tannins, generously oaked and so ripe that their fruits seem almost jammy.
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What that means is that even though many of these are truly fine wines, their appeal will be primarily for those who like their reds forward, muscular and aggressive. Which is just fine, even if you are thoroughly gentle.

Truth is, even if you don't get carried away by them, it is easy to understand why others do and why many of these are destined to become New World cult wines.

Nearly all of these wines are produced and imported in limited quantities and are available primarily via direct purchase from Mersch by telephone at 03 6343807. The company's Web site can be found at www.mersch.co.il.

Heathcote, Shiraz, Wild Duck Estate, Springflat, Australia, 2006: Opens as a powerhouse, with generous creamy wood, gripping tannins and a near potent dose of black pepper. The wine settles down nicely in the glass and reveals concentrated but well focused blackberry, black currant and purple plums on a background of Oriental spices and earthy minerals. Give this one time for its elements to come together and although always powerful it will show elegance and vitality. Best 2011-2016. NIS 319. Score 92.

The Colonial Estate, Single Vineyard Shiraz, Richard Lander, Barossa, 2006: Full-bodied, intensely dark garnet in color, with generous wood and firm tannins that part slowly to reveal jammy plum and berry fruits, on a background of earthy minerals and spices. Drink now if you like your wines on the heavy side but give it a bit of time in the bottle and its elements will integrate more smoothly. Best 2011-2016. NIS 499. Score 92.

Teusner, Shiraz, Ebenezer Road, Barossa, Australia, 2006: Instead of being a blockbuster this one opens with remarkable smoothness, shows a gentle hand with the wood and has gently caressing, silky-smooth tannins. On the nose and palate ripe blackberry, currant and plum fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of espresso coffee. Long and elegant. Drink now-2015. NIS 139. Score 91.

Radford Dale, Shiraz, Edna Valley, Barossa, Australia, 2006: Dark garnet, opens with a floral and spicy nose, goes on to reveal a full-bodied, softly tannic wine with generous currant, blackberry and spicy notes. Long and generous. Drink now-2015. NIS 241. Score 91.

Thorne Clarke, Tempranillo, Only Son, Late Harvested, Barossa, Australia, 2006: Almost inky dark garnet in color, full-bodied and intense, with firmly gripping tannins, generous peppery oak and near-jammy plum and wild berry fruits. A blockbuster now and destined to remain so in the future. Well made but primarily for those who enjoy wines that are somewhat overwhelming. Drink now-2015. NIS 178. Score 90.

Schutz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Nectar, Barossa, Australia, 2006: Dark garnet, perhaps a bit heavy handed on the oak for its medium to full-bodied frame, but that is compensated by soft tannins that part to reveal currant and blackberry fruits that open on the palate. Generous but somewhat short on the finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 181. Score 89.

Kalleske, Shiraz, Greenock, Barossa, 2006: Dark, almost inky garnet in color, with generous oak and firm tannins, those in fine balance with blackberry, currant and espresso coffee notes, all on a background of freshly polished saddle leather and spices. At this stage somewhat of a powerhouse but give it a bit of time to develop in the bottle and its elements will come together quite nicely. Best 2011-2015. NIS 290. Score 89.

Dutschke, Shiraz-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Willow Bend, Barossa Valley, Australia, 2006: Garnet towards royal purple, medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle spicy oak influences to show off an appealing melange of berry, cherry and red plum notes and, on the finish an appealing note of granite-like minerals rising. Drink now-2012. NIS 109. Score 89.

O'Leary Walker, Riesling, Polish Hill River, Australia, 2008: The color of damp straw, with a spicy wood and floral nose and lively acidity to highlight pineapple and green apple flavors. Not at all a traditional Riesling but easy to drink and equally easy to enjoy. Drink now. NIS 139. Score 88.

Foxes Island, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2007: Light golden straw in color, showing pear, citrus and tropical fruits on a background that hints nicely of spicy oak. Crisp and lively with an appealing gooseberry note that rises on the finish. Drink now. NIS 159. Score 87.

Astrolabe, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2007: I cannot help but like the name of this winery, called after the ship that discovered the area in the 1800s. I also liked the wine. An unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, light to medium-bodied, crisp and refreshing, with grassy and mineral notes to complement pear and citrus notes. Drink now. NIS 133. Score 87.

Seifried Park, Old Coach Road, Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand, 2008: Lots and lots of tropical and citrus fruits and even some minerals here but in the end leaves the impression of a refreshing alcoholic wine punch and not of a wine. Drink now. NIS 100. Score 85.
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