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Wine and Spirits / Spring roses
By Daniel Rogov

No one has ever suggested that rose wines, which very rarely earn scores higher than 88 or 89, should be taken with great seriousness. That does not mean, however, that such wines are to be ignored. Dry, crisp and remarkably refreshing on a warm spring or summer's day, these are wines that are meant to be consumed not in sips but in gulps. More than that, these are wines that go as well with Mediterranean mezes as they do with grilled fish, seafood or chicken salads, roast beef sandwiches and grilled foods. In a word, at their best rose wines can be great fun.

Rose wines can be made from many different red grapes; the "trick" is that the freshly pressed juice is kept in contact with the skin for a very short period of time. Because both the color and much of the tannins in red wines come from those skins, this short contact allows for a wine that is lighter in color, distinctly less tannic (sometimes closer in flavor to a white wine than a red), and lighter in body. All of this means "refreshing." Rose or blush wines are only rarely true pink, and their color can range from rose-petal pink to orange or even ruby. To add to the refreshment value of the wines reviewed below, their price are quite reasonable, ranging from NIS 40-NIS 70 each.
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Chateau Golan, Royal Reserve, Rose, 2008: Made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, developed partly in stainless steel and briefly in used barriques. Medium-bodied, with appealing red and black berries, strawberries and red currants on a spicy background. Plenty of good acidity here. A more than usually complex rose. Drink now. Score 89.

Tabor, Adama, Rose, Charsit, 2008: Ruby to cherry red, medium-bodied, a lovely rose, fresh, crisp and full of life, with the most positive kinds of tutti-frutti aromas and flavors that include strawberries, raspberries, red currants and just a tantalizing hint of bubble-gum to tease our palates. Rose as rose should be. Drink now. Score 89. K

Recanati, Rose, 2008: Somewhere between rose petal pink and the color of strawberry juice, a blend of 80% Barbera and 20% Merlot with minimal skin contact. Fresh, firm and crisply dry with appealing notes of strawberries, berries and dried cherries followed by hints of white pepper and red licorice on the finish. Sits easily on the palate. Drink now. Score 88. K

Vitkin, Israeli Journey, Pink, 2008: Light cherry red, a rose primarily of Carignan and Syrah with small amounts of Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc blended in. Crisply dry and generously fruity, shows a low nose but opens to appealing aromas and flavors of strawberries, raspberries and black cherries, those with floral and spicy overtones. Medium-bodied, crisply dry and refreshing, strong enough to stand up to chicken and veal dishes. Drink now. Score 88.

Dalton, Rose, 2008: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, with very short skin contact. Peach-blossom pink, with wild berry and cassis fruits matched by an appealing hint of grapefruit peel. Off-dry and lively, fine on its own or a good match to fish, seafood and chicken salads. Drink now. Score 87. K

Avidan, Petite Soleil Rose, 2008: A true potpourri, this deep cherry-red wine rose is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Grenache, Carignan and Pinot Noir. Although it seems that just about everything "left over" was used here. the result is a success. The medium-bodied wine shows a fruity nose and appealing raspberry, cassis and cranberry fruits. Think of this not so much as a true rose, but as a light and refreshing red. A fun and easy-to-drink wine. Drink now. Score 87.

Binyamina, Yogev, Rose, 2008: Light rose-petal pink in color, opens quietly but develops nicely after a few minutes in the glass. Good acidity here to keep the raspberry, strawberry and citrus peel notes lively and refreshing. Rose as rose should be. Drink now. Score 87. K

Galil Mountain, Rose, 2008: Light- to medium-bodied and with refreshing acidity, a crisply dry, rose-petal pink colored wine showing an appealing tutti-frutti array of red fruits. Drink now. Score 87. K

Shiloh, Rose, 2007: Somewhere in color between rose-petal pink and cherry-red, a crisply dry rose. A blend of Barbera and Cabernet Franc allowed only short skin contact, showing appealing raspberry, strawberry and blueberry fruits. A most pleasant quaffer, medium-bodied and well enough done to stand up nicely to grilled fish or chicken dishes. Drink up. Score 87. K

Tzora Vineyards, Rose, Gvat HaChalukim, 2007: Made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, pale pink with an orange tint, light- to medium-bodied. Showing berry, cherry and watermelon notes, a dry wine with a creeping hint of sweetness. Drink up. Score 86. K
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