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Wine and Spirits / Carmel reaches new heights
By Daniel Rogov

From time to time I stand back and look at the Carmel Winery with a sense of continued amazement, reflecting on the quantum leap in quality that the winery has made in the last five years. Among the signs that the winery intends to continue in the direction of producing wines of increasing interest to even the most sophisticated wine lovers are the selections in their Regional series, also known as their Appellation series. Simply stated, they are excellent wines at reasonable prices and well worth exploring.

Carmel, Cabernet Franc, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2007: A welcome back is in order, for although the winery released a Cabernet Franc varietal wine in this series from the 2003 vintage, the grapes for that wine came from the Judean Hills. The current release, from the Netua and Alma vineyards in the Upper Galilee, was developed for 10 months in oak, some new and some used. Blended with eight percent of Petit Verdot and seven percent Malbec, a medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet wine showing soft tannins and gentle spicy oak influences integrating nicely and opening to show red fruits and vanilla as well as a clear cigar box note. Drink now-2012. NIS 70. Score 90. K
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Carmel, Carignan, Old Vines, Appellation, Zichron Yaakov, 2006: A super-dark garnet blend of 85 percent Carignan and 15 percent Petit Verdot. The Carignan comes from 35-40-year-old very low-yield wines with no irrigation. It's a blockbuster on first attack, but the firm tannins and generous wood settles down nicely to reveal a rich array of plum, red cherry, raspberry and currant fruits all supported nicely by hints of cocoa and spices. Look as well for a generous mocha-rich finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 80. Score 90. K

Carmel, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Appellation, Judean Hills, 2006: A big wine, full-bodied, deep garnet toward royal-purple, with gripping tannins just starting to settle down but showing fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Ripe plum, blackberry and boysenberry notes on a background of minerals, mint chocolate and spicy cedarwood. Drink now-2012. NIS 80. Score 90. K

Carmel, Merlot, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2006: Dark garnet toward royal purple, with soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Medium to full-bodied, opens with a plum-rich nose shifting on the palate to berry, black cherry and cassis fruits all supported nicely by hints of white pepper and eucalyptus. Drink now-2011. NIS 75. Score 89. K

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2006: Dark garnet with orange reflections, medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins now settling in nicely. On the nose and palate are spicy wood, currant and blackberry fruits along with hints of Mediterranean herbs and dark chocolate. Drink now-2010. NIS 75. Score 88. K

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2006: A medium to full-bodied blend of 50 percent of each of the varieties, oak-aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, of which about 30 percent were new. Dark garnet in color, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins parting to reveal a tempting array of blackberry and plum fruits, on a background of spices. Coming in near the finish and lingering nicely are hints of leather and vanilla. Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 88. K

Carmel, Johannisberg Riesling, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008: Unoaked, medium-bodied, with fine aromatics. Categorized (the law is strange) as off-dry but with a hint of sweetness so gentle that in Germany the wine would be labeled as trocken (i.e. dry). On the nose and palate generous green apple, grapefruit, lemon curd, minerals and a nice hint of white pepper to add to its charm. Drink now-2012. NIS 55. Score 91. K

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008: An off-dry, unoaked white, made from grapes selected from the Kayoumi and Sha'al vineyards. Light gold with green tints, showing typical Gewurztraminer litchi and spicy notes, those matched nicely by notes of ripe peaches and apricots. Fine balancing acidity and a comfortably long finish. Drink now-2011, perhaps a bit longer. NIS 55. Score 90. K

Carmel, Viognier, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008: With 25 percent of the wine developed in oak, the rest in stainless steel, some of the grapes early harvested and other late harvested a ripe, creamy near full-bodied white showing concentrated citrus, pear and green apple notes, those on a background of dried apricots and, even though crisply dry, a tantalizing honeyed note. Fine balance between fruits and acidity lead to a long and delicate finish. Drink now-2012. NIS 55. Score 90. K

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008: Made from 25-year-old vines, unoaked, showing light golden straw in color, showing freshly aromatic and on the nose and palate citrus, tropical fruits and citrus peel notes. Not a complex wine but one that is lively and remarkably full of flavor and charm. As good as a cocktail party offering as with food. Drink now. NIS 50. Score 89. K
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