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Wine and Spirits / Wines for tough times By Daniel Rogov The current recession and increasingly bad economic times are having their impact on the local wine market, with many people "trading down" - buying the same amount of wine at cheaper prices. People are buying less at wine stores and more at supermarkets to find bargains, with wine stores fighting back by having more specials. The recession has also been felt in restaurants, with even the moneyed not wanting to appear ostentatious and thus frequenting mid-level establishments instead of the top ones. In reaction, many of the best restaurants in the country have started offering very reasonable prix fixe menus, not only at lunch but at dinner as well. Advertisement As for wine in restaurants, a large percentage of diners continue to order wine, but an increasing number bring wine from home, and those ordering from the wine list are tending toward more reasonably priced offerings. For several years, knowledgeable wine drinkers have known that the best buys in the country were the Tabor, Galil Mountain and Dalton wineries as well as in the Gamla series of the Golan Heights Winery. Those wines are now being joined by wines from the Zion winery and, while those may not make for the most sophisticated drinking, they do offer excellent value. Following are reviews of recently released Zion wines. Those in the Erez series cost NIS 49 per bottle and those in the Tidhar series, NIS 39. It is worth keeping in mind that wines with scores of 85 or 86 are considered "good to very good." Zion, Armon, 2005: Aged in partly new and partly one and two year old American barriques for 24 months, a medium- to full-bodied blend of 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot and five percent Petite Sirah. On the nose and palate generous currant, blackberry and purple plums, supported nicely by notes of spices, espresso coffee and earthy minerals. Best from mid-2009-2011, perhaps longer. NIS 95. Score 90. K Zion, Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc, Erez, 2007: Another white showing far better than at an earlier tasting. Perhaps my palate? Perhaps a later bottling? The wine is an unoaked blend of equal parts Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Light gold with green and orange tints, medium-bodied, with summer fruits and melon highlighted by floral and apple notes. Just enough complexity to get our attention. Drink now. Score 86. K Zion, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Erez, 2006: Dark garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, a blend of 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 45 percent Merlot and five percent Petite Sirah. Shows 12 months of development in barriques with gently spicy wood and opening on the nose and palate to show an array of currant, blackberry, citrus peel and red licorice. Turns a bit astringent on the finish. Drink now. Score 85. K Zion, Petite Sirah-Merlot, Erez, 2006: Developed partly in new, partly in one to two year old barriques, a blend of 60 percent Petite Sirah and 40 percent Merlot. Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with softly caressing tannins parting to show plums, wild berries and currants, all on a lightly spicy background. Turns a bit astringent on the finish. Drink now. Score 85. K Zion, Cabernet Sauvignon, Erez, 2006: Another wine showing better than at earlier tastings. Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, with somewhat chunky country-style tannins yielding in the glass to show blackberry, black cherry and purple plum fruits on a background of nutmeg flavored dark chocolate. Drink nicely now but better starting in mid-2009 and then until 2011. Score 86. K Zion, Emerald Riesling-French Colombard, Tidhar, 2007: Showing far better than at an earlier tasting, perhaps a sign that the wine was undergoing bottle shock on that earlier occasions. A blend of 75 percent Emerald Riesling and 25 percent French Colombard, categorized as dry and with just the barest hint of sweetness creeping in. Light golden straw in color, with aromas and flavors of apples, melon and pineapple. Nothing complex here but clean and refreshing, a fine entry level wine. Drink now. Score 85. K Zion, Merlot, Tidhar, 2006: Medium-bodied, dark ruby toward black cherry in color, an unoaked red with soft tannins and showing notes of berry, black cherry and wild strawberry on a lightly spicy background. A blend of 90% percent Merlot and 5 percent each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. Soft, round and easy to drink. Drink now. Score 85. K Zion, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tidhar, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 85 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 percent Merlot and five percent Petite Sirah. Shows silky tannins and opens in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries, black cherries and plums. Not overly complex but a good quaffer. Drink now. Score 86. K Zion, Carignan-Merlot, Tidhar, 2006: An unoaked blend of 70 percent Carignan, 25 percent Merlot and five percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark royal purple in color, with soft tannins and generous blackberry and raspberry fruits, on a lightly spicy and earthy-mineral background. Drink now. Score 85. K This section of my column is usually reserved for especially good values in wines. In order to keep our spirits high, or at least to have a chuckle, let us think of those who, no matter how much money they lose, still have enough left to continue their luxurious lifestyles. The following wine, readily available at the Derekh HaYain chain of wine stores, certainly fits into the category of "luxurious." Louis Roederer, Brut Champagne, Cristal, 2002: Light, almost sparkling gold in color, a medium-bodied Champagne, crisply dry with appealing lemon, orange peel and green apple notes backed up nicely by hints of toasted white bread. With a long-lasting mousse, sharp bubbles that go on and on and a long finish. A superb Champagne that will develop very nicely in the bottle. Drinking very nicely now but best from 2012-2030. Score 94. NIS 1,950. Bookmark to del.icio.us   A 'political' holocaust Palestinian youth orchestra disbanded after playing concert for Holocaust survivors. Mideast peace fantasy How can talks with Palestinians and Syria progress as if there were no Arab initiative?

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