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Wine and Spirits / A potpourri from Giaconda By Daniel Rogov The boutique importer Giaconda continues to surprise with new and excellent wines, many of them priced even lower than in the U.S. or U.K. Below are my notes from a recent tasting of a potpourri of wines from the Mosel region of Germany, Alsace and Lirac in France and Spain's Ribera del Duero. The prices quoted are subject to a 10 percent discount for members (subscription is free). For further information or to place orders phone the importer directly at: 03-6022746. Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Schieferterrassen, Mosel, 2006: Light golden, opening with notes reminiscent of spring flowers and toasted butternuts, which part to reveal peach and apricot notes, and finishing with a hint of bitter almonds. Not so much a fruity wine as a nutty-floral one. Drink now-2012. NIS 120. Score 88. (Re-tasted 11 November 2008) Advertisement Mark Tempe, Riesling, Burgreben, Alsace, 2001: Taste this one blind and, as with many of the Tempe wines, you might swear that this wine was German, not Alsatian. Fair enough, since although the wine has the distinct petrol nose of many German wines, it goes on to show generous notes of green tea, apples and peach jam, with a tantalizing hint of sweetness backed up by finely balanced acidity and, on the long finish, a hint of marzipan. Drink now-2016. Score 90. (Tasted 11 November 2008) Mark Tempe, Riesling, Mambourg, Grand Gru, Alsace, 2000: Fine balance here between moderate sweetness, acidity and spices, opening to reveal generous notes of baked apples, Creme Patisserie and a generously spiced Creme Catalan. A long and generous wine with the alcohol rising on the very long finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 320. Score 91. (Tasted 11 November 2008) Mark Tempe, Gewurztraminer, Zellenberg, Alsace, 2005: Opens with an oily nose that one might take for Riesling but which yields in the glass to aromas and flavors of lychees, rose petals and minerals. Categorized as half-sweet but with fine balancing acidity to keep it lively and an unfolding note of eucalyptus honey to add fascination. Drink now-2011. Score 90. (Tasted 11 November 2008) Mark Tempe, Gewurztraminer, Mambourg, Grand Cru, Alsace, 2003: Deep gold in color, with a nose resplendent with caramel and coconut, opening in the glass to reveal pineapple and apricot fruits, on a mineral-rich background. Long and complex, still remarkably youthful but drinking beautifully now-2014. NIS 312. Score 92. (Tasted 11 November 2008) Chateau d'Aqueria, l'Heritage, Lirac, 2005: Dark garnet, with gently caressing tannins and a gentle wood influence. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Clairette, Cinsaut, Mourvedre and Bourboulenc, opening to show blackberries, cherries and currants, which are supported nicely by notes of tobacco and earthy minerals. Drink now-2010. NIS 188. Score 89. (Tasted 11 November 2008) Bodegas Montecastro y llanahermosa, Ribera del Duero, 2005: Dark garnet toward royal purple, with firmly gripping near-sweet tannins set off nicely by spicy wood and fresh acidity. Opens slowly in the glass at this stage, revealing generous black fruits and appealing notes of Oriental spices. A complex wine, approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2020. NIS 166. Score 92. (Tasted twice, once directly from the bottle, once after decantage on 11 November 2008) Kosher from Austria Located near Vienna, the House of Hafner produces both kosher and non-kosher wines. Below are the reviews of kosher Hafner wines that have recently become available locally. To order directly or to find the store closest to you, call the importer at: 054-4463266. Hafner, Gruner Veltliner, Eiswein, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Austria, 2002: Made in the traditional manner, entirely from Gruner Veltliner grapes that were allowed to freeze on the vine, a process by which the sugar concentrates. Generously sweet, with a good hint of botrytis spiciness and showing fine balancing acidity to keep the wine lively. On the nose and palate an array of dried fruits, including apricots, peaches and apples, matched by a very appealing peppery overlay. Generous and mouthfilling - good with goose liver appetizers, fruit-based desserts or as dessert. Drink now-2014. NIS 165. Score 90. K (Tasted 16 October 2008) Hafner, Scheurebe, Trockenbeernauslese, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Austria, 2000: A wine that continues to cross my tasting table and never disappoints. Medium-bodied, moderately sweet with good concentration and fine balancing acidity. Opens to show honeyed peach and apricot fruits on a lightly spicy background. Appropriate as an aperitif or as a dessert wine. Drink now-2009. Score 88. NIS 165. K (Re-tasted 16 October 2008) Hafner, Gruner Veltliner, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Austria, 2007: Full-bodied, this dry white shows an array of grapefruit peel, peach celery and white pepper, faulted by a somewhat cooked set of aromas and flavors, all of which cause the wine to fall a bit flabby and flat. Lacks the necessary acidity and minerality that might have added charm. Drink now-2009. NIS 65. Score 83. K (Tasted 20 October 2008) Hafner, Zweigelt, Barrique, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Austria, 2003: Immediately after release, this proved a very appealing wine, medium- to full-bodied with fine depth and complexity and showing generous currant, cherry and raspberry fruits. Now, however, it is falling apart somewhat, the once fresh fruits taking on distinctly cooked aromas and flavors, smoky wood on the ascendant and with a note of bitter herbs on the finish. Drink up. NIS 110. Score 78. K (Re-tasted 20 October 2008) Hafner, Dornrosschen Cuvee, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Austria, 2007: A blend of Rossler and Dornfelder grapes, dark garnet, full-bodied, with chunky, almost coarse tannins, a heavy dose of acidity and a distinct overlay of fruits that have been accidentally cooked in potato water. Some black fruits here but reflects its 25 months in French barriques with a too generous overlay of spices and vanilla. Drink now. NIS 150. Score 76. NIS 150. K (Tasted 20 October 2006) Bookmark to del.icio.us   Iranian Jews protest Members of Tehran's small Jewish community demonstrate against IDF operation in Gaza. Missile's view Watch Israel's attack on Gaza from the perspective of the missile.

Read & React Rockets fired from Gaza kill 2 Israelis within hour Responses: 224 ANALYSIS / Hamas is hoping for an IDF ground operation Responses: 135 Grossman / Is Israel imprisoned in the ceremony of war? Responses: 117 Prolonged Gaza operation spells trouble for Israel Responses: 46 Chicago synagogue firebombed; police probe possible link to Gaza violence Responses: 36 More Headlines 00:36 Gaza rockets strike Be'er Sheva area for first time 23:43 Olmert: Gaza offensive to go on until Israel's aims achieved 00:23 IAF unleashes massive strike on Hamas tunnel network near Rafah 23:57 Barak asks cabinet to approve emergency call-up of 2,520 reservists 21:17 ANALYSIS / Hamas is hoping for an IDF ground operation in Gaza 00:11 Ex-U.S. Army engineer Kadish pleads guilty to spying for Israel 22:21 WATCH: Israel's attack on Gaza from the missiles' viewpoint 16:50 IN PICTURES / Firestorm over Gaza 00:45 VIDEO / Mubarak: We'll open Gaza crossing only if PA takes control 22:23 Quartet calls for immediate truce between Israel and Gaza 22:22 IDF war games predict look of Gaza ground operation 21:05 Iran clerics recruit Islamist fighters to aid Hamas' battle against Israel 22:29 Israeli boy, 3, lightly wounded by Palestinian stone-throwers 17:04 Elder child of Chabad Mumbai attack victims dies of long-term illness 02:09 Throngs at Ashdod funeral mark 'war against Israeli normalcy' 02:17 Mayor of rocket-battered Netivot calls for talks with Hamas Previous Editions Select Day 30 dec 29 dec 28 dec 26 dec 25 dec 24 dec 23 dec 22 dec 21 dec 19 dec 18 dec 17 dec

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