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Wine and Spirits / In good ta'am By Daniel Rogov I recently made my way to Tiv Ta'am's new Ramat Ha'hayal branch for a wine tasting. While this chain is known largely for being the country's first non-kosher supermarket, not many have realized that the company has its own importer, which specializes in wines. The selection of wines that I saw prior to the tasting - imported and local - was quite impressive. The store offers wines from the inexpensive and not especially sophisticated (auite often selling three or four bottles for NIS 100) to the very impressive and often quite expensive. The larger branches are definitely worth visiting for their wines. However, especially when it comes to the upper-end, expensive wines, a bit of comparison shopping is advised, as it would be at any other wine store chain. Advertisement Barossa Valley Estate, Shiraz, E&E Black Pepper, Barossa, Australia, 2002: One of Australia's consistently best and most interesting Shiraz wines, and this year no disappointment whatsoever. Impenetrable royal purple in color, full-bodied, with gripping tannins and tremendous concentration. On opening attack black cherries, blackberries and Oriental spices, which open to reveal notes of stewed plums, bittersweet chocolate and licorice on a generous black-pepper background. Long, mouth-filling and intense, yet coming together as a round, coherent and elegant whole. Best 2010-2020. NIS 375. Score 96. Lamblin et Fils, Chablis, Cru Vaillon, 1er Cru, 2006: Bright gold with green tints, opens with a rich pineapple and lemon curd nose, and goes on to notes of citrus peel, apples and flinty minerals, supported nicely by a hint of fresh herbs on the long finish. Full-bodied, packs a punch but shows elegance. To find this one at its best, hold for a while. Best 2009-2012. NIS 179. Score 90. Chateau Tour Prignac, Grande Reserve, Medoc, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle notes of spicy wood balanced nicely by red currant and berry fruits, and an appealing note of licorice that comes in from mid-palate. Drink now-2011. NIS 135. Score 88. Heredad Ugarte, Martin Cendoya Familia Reserva, Rioja, 2003: Super-dark, almost impenetrable garnet, full-bodied, with firm, even somewhat gripping tannins and spicy, vanilla-rich wood in fine balance with fruits. Aged in oak for 24 months, this wine is mostly Tempranillo, with some Graciano and Mazuelo (the local name for Carignan), and it opens to show a distinctly plum-based personality, the fruits supported nicely by hints of orange rind and spices. Drink now-2010. NIS 125. Score 88. Leasingham, Riesling, Magnus, Clare Valley, Australia, 2005: A fine example of how a wine can be simple but simultaneously delicious. Golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, with good balancing acidity to highlight generous grapefruit, pineapple and citrus fruits, all on a just spicy enough background. Refreshing on its own and a good match to fish and seafood dishes. Drink now-2009. NIS 75. Score 87. Heredad Ugarte, Crianza, Rioja, 2004: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely with smoky oak and showing black cherry, plum, chocolate and tobacco notes matched by an appealing hint of bitter herbs. A good bet with small cuts of beef, lamb or pork, or with meat-based stews. Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 87. Bodegas Santa Ana, Malbec, La Moscote, Argentina, 2005: Dark garnet to royal purple, with generous wood and firm tannins yielding slowly in the glass to reveal plum and berry jam notes, with a hint of white chocolate on the palate. Not complex but a good match to food. NIS 69. Score 85. Banrock Station, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, S.E. Australia, 2005: An easy-going red wine, garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins, opening to show generous currant, blackberry and orange peel notes. Nothing complex here but a good quaffer. NIS 70. Score 85. Two Kosher Champagnes The first of the following recent imports is available only at the Tiv Ta'am chain of supermarkets and the second can be ordered directly from the importer Jean Michel Gozlan at 052-240-0218. I consider both wines excellent. It should also be noted that I consider them seriously overpriced; they cost more than double their price in the United States. Laurent Perrier, Brut Rose, Champagne, n.v. (Kosher Edition): Depending on how the light hits, pink to orange or salmon pink in color, this medium-bodied Champagne is made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes. Light notes of yeast and oak highlight a fascinating array of cherry, red berry, apple and orange peel. Fine, long-lasting sharp bubbles, a long mousse and a hint of yeasty white bread that rises on the long finish. NIS 575. Score 91. K Louis de Sacy, Champagne, Brut, Grand Cru, n.v. (Kosher Edition): A traditional Champagne, this is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier (60%, 35% and 5% respectively). With a good mousse and sharp, long-lasting bubbles, the wine shows deep golden with an orange tint, opens with a rather generous whiff of yeasts but settles down quickly to reveal appealing aromas and flavors of red berries, peaches and citrus peel, complemented by notes of sourdough bread and minerals. NIS 320. Score 90. K Bookmark to del.icio.us   Livni ahead in polls Netanyahu loses lead he has held for two years, while Labor heads for election debacle. The frozen chosen In staunchly Republican Alaska, a Jewish Democrat may take state's lone seat in Congress.

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