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Wine and Spirits / A pick of European wines By Daniel Rogov Boutique importers, whether importing wines from France's Champagne and Burgundy regions, Piedmont in Italy, the Riesling wines of Germany or Australia's Barossa Valley, continue to make a dent in the local wine market. With the proprietors of these small companies traveling extensively to hand-pick the wines they will import, some from well-known and others from little-known producers but almost always produced in small quantities, these wines can be of special interest to those wine lovers who want to wander off a bit from the well-trodden path. Better yet, their wines are often offered at prices that are competitive with what we would have to pay in the country of origin. The wines reviewed immediately below are imported by The Doosh, a boutique importer focusing largely on wines from Italy's Piedmont area and making a good name for itself since 2006. The wines can be purchased directly from the importer by telephoning 054-7538377. Advertisement Dosio, Brunello, Fossati, Piedmont, 1996: Full-bodied, with now softened and gently mouth-coating tannins. Dark garnet, with a nose rich with lightly toasted oak and white truffles, and opening on the palate to reveal ripe raspberries and blackberries, those followed by hints of grilled meat, vanilla and Mediterranean herbs, all leading to a long and generous finish. Drink now-2017. NIS 550. Score 93. Piero Busso, Barbaresco, Gallina, Piedmont, 2004: Full-bodied, with still-firm tannins needing time to settle down but showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. A floral and berry nose leads to flavors of plums, blackberries and black cherries. On the long finish notes of licorice and chocolate. Give this one some time. Best 2011-2018, perhaps longer. NIS 290. Score 93. Francesco, Rinaldi & Figli, Barolo, Brunate, Piedmont, 2001: Oh, what a lovely Barolo. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins that coat the mouth gently and part to make way for strawberry, cherry and creme patisserie notes, the tannins rising some on the finish together with hints of freshly-picked mushrooms and truffles. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best from 2010-2018. NIS 340. Score 93. Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Cannubbio, Piedmont, 2003: Full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating velvety tannins. Opens with plums and blackberries, those yielding comfortably to strawberries and notes of boeuf tartare and mocha, all on a lightly spicy background. Generous and long. Approachable now but best 2010-2018. NIS 270. Score 92. Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, 2006: Garnet red, medium bodied, soft, round and oh-so fruity, showing forward berry, cherry and floral notes. Not complex but very appealing, especially if served just a bit chilled. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 88. Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, 2006: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrated nicely and showing plum, blueberry and floral notes and, on the medium-long, near-sweet finish, hints of chocolate-coated orange peel. Drink now. NIS 75. Score 86. Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Nebbiolo d'Alba, Piedmont, 2006: Medium-bodied, with generous fruit, fresh acidity and ripe plum and spring flowers on the nose and palate. Nothing complex here but fresh, clean and refreshing, and best with pizza, lamb chops or burgers. Drink now. NIS 98. Score 86. Cascina Orsolina, Barbera d'Asti Superiore, Bricco dei Cappuccini, Piedmont, 2004: Dark garnet, with orange and purple reflections, full-bodied and with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. A big wine in every way, showing forward berry, plum and cassis fruits on a background that hints nicely of orange-flavored chocolate mousse. Drink now-2010. NIS 120. Score 90. Three from Bordeaux Three wines from Bordeaux have recently appeared on local shelves, each imported by the Scottish Company. The wines, from lesser-known Bordeaux chateaux are often categorized in France as supermarket wines - but as every French man and woman knows, such wines often rise to surprising levels of quality. Chateau Laroque, St. Emilion, 2001: Dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with chewy tannins showing fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate generous blackberry, vanilla, chocolate and licorice notes, all leading to a long, fruit-rich finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 250. Score 88. Chateau de Lamarque, Haut Medoc, 2003: Medium- to full-bodied, with super-soft tannins and just a bare hint of spicy wood, opening to show aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants and mocha and, on the medium-long finish, a hint the peel of bitter oranges. Lovely with steak-frites. Drink now-2009. NIS 140. Score 86. Chateau Lanette, Graves, 2005: Deep ruby toward garnet, medium-bodied with soft tannins and showing appealing blackberry, black licorice and mineral notes. Nothing complex here, but good with sausages or small cuts of beef or lamb. Drink now-2009. NIS 55. Score 85. Bookmark to del.icio.us   Saddam in Tel Aviv Israel's Igal Naor 'never wanted to play Hamlet, only Saddam.' The preacher Archbishop Tutu to UN: Israel may have committed war crime.

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