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Looney over limes By Doram Gaunt Tags: Lemon, Lime Proverbial wisdom tells us that, "If life gives you lemons, make lemonade," meaning we should embrace life's difficulties (embodied by the lemon's sourness) and turn them into something positive (a tasty drink). During these steamy days, however, life has not given us many lemons, so there is nothing to turn into lemonade. For several months now, those addicted to the beverage have had to adapt to a new reality: The price of lemons has reached NIS 25 a kilo and higher. Tal Amit, head of the citrus branch at Israel's Plant Council, says the shortage is due to the cold wave that swept through the country in January. The low temperatures severely damaged the lemon groves, destroying one-third of the crop. This is a collective calamity that has adversely affected lemons the world over, from Spain to Argentina, meaning that even imports aren't available to meet demand and appease the market. If this were not enough, Amit adds, not only the fruit, but the trees themselves and their future yield were damaged as well. In other words, the shortage of lemons will continue into next winter. Some temporary relief is expected from January to March, but barring further natural disasters, the situation will not return to normal before the winter of 2010. So, it's time to come to terms with the fact that a lemon costs a pretty penny. Advertisement But the question still begs to be asked: How can we turn lemons into lemonade, despite the current situation? With lemons in short supply, Israel has retained all of its lime crop, two-thirds of which is usually exported. There are thus 1,500 tons of a wondrous, albeit briefly available, but unharmed, summer fruit - and it's much more than just a substitute for lemons. Indeed, many vegetable and fruit sellers are buying limes today instead. This is a rare, wonderful opportunity to grab the green fruit and squeeze its aromatic juice over just about everything, right before serving: fish, fruit, vegetables, salads, chicken, legumes, alcoholic beverages. But hurry up: The season, which began in late July, is now at its peak and will be over by the end of this month. The lime, the lemon's rotund cousin, is the sourest member of the citrus family: Citric acid makes up almost 8 percent of its weight (depending on the species; Israeli growers raise Tahiti and Bears limes, which are virtually seedless and slightly less sour - about halfway on the scale between a Mexican lime and an ordinary lemon). One reason for their intense sourness is that limes are generally used when they are still green and not quite ripe (a ripe one eventually turns yellow). The lime's peel is green, thin and smoother than a lemon's (but also highly aromatic, so it is worth zesting and using it). The fruit itself is smaller and usually juicier. Unlike green lemons, which are sometimes sold before they are ripe, the lime is pale green on the inside, too, and its flavor is more flowery than that of the lemon. Some fruit sellers cannot tell the difference between limes and green lemons, and sell one as the other. Be sure to choose fruit that is relatively heavy for its size, with a peel that is smooth and blemish-free. In our climate, limes are best kept in the refrigerator. In tropical countries where lemons cannot be grown, limes are a national source of sourness. In Central and South America and in many Asian countries, "sour" is synonymous with "lime." It is used for preserving and marinating, and is squeezed at the last minute over almost any dish. Without limes there would be no ceviche or guacamole, no Pad Thai or papaya salad (or Thai food, in general), no mojitos or caipirinhas, and the list goes on. The combination of freshly squeezed lime juice with spicy chili dishes is no less than brilliant. Israel has some 400 dunams (about 100 acres) of lime groves, located in the Lower Galilee, around the Kinneret, in the Beit She'an valley and in the Jezreel Valley. Since they're so easily available, limes should be used in all fish dishes; in stir-fries with chicken (or shellfish), coconut milk and noodles; in salads and fruit salads; in drinks and cocktails; and, of course, in desserts and jams. Another good idea is to squeeze the juice and freeze it in ice trays (you can also grate the peel and keep it in an airtight bag in the freezer), make ice cream or preserve the fruit for off-season use. If we make enough use of limes, perhaps Israeli farmers will find it worth their while to grow more and refrain from exporting them even once the current lemon crisis has passed. And - of course - limes can be made into limeade. Mojito This refreshing Cuban beverage will cheer you up, too. Ingredients (for one glass) leaves from one sprig of mint 3 tbsp. (45 ml.) lime juice 2 tsp. sugar (or according to taste) ice 3 tbsp. (45 ml.) white rum soda water garnish: a sprig of mint, lime slices Place mint leaves in a tall glass. Add lime juice and sugar. With a swizzle stick or the back of a spoon or fork, crush mint leaves to release the essential oils and stir to begin dissolving the sugar (you can also use powdered sugar or sugar syrup, for easier and better melting). Fill glass with ice, add rum and fill with soda water to the rim. Stir well and decorate with a stalk of mint and a slice or two of lime. Drink immediately. Lime chutney A thick sauce with bold flavors: sour, sweet, spicy. Good for meat dishes served with rice, and on bread. Ingredients (for about 500 ml.) 2 tsp. whole coriander seeds 1 tsp. whole mustard seeds 1/2 tsp. whole cumin seeds 1 tsp. ground turmeric 400 grams lime, unpeeled, quartered 1 green sour apple, peeled, cored and diced 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 2 cm. ginger root, peeled and finely chopped 1 hot chili pepper, finely chopped (or to taste) 1/2 cup raisins, any color 1/2 cup vinegar 1 1/2 cups sugar Heat coriander, mustard and cumin seeds in a dry pot until they are lightly toasted and emit a fragrance (a minute or two). Transfer to a mortar and pestle and gently break the seeds (you can also crush them with a rolling pin or bottle). In a food processor, grind the lime until it is chopped into little pieces, but does not become a paste. Place all ingredients in a pot and bring to a near-boil, cover and cook on a low flame until the lime softens and the chutney's color deepens and darkens, about 45 minutes (stir occasionally and make sure there is enough liquid in the pot; if necessary, add a little water). Uncover and cook until most of the liquids evaporate and the chutney becomes much thicker (about 10 minutes). Transfer the hot chutney into sterilized jars, in which it can last at least a year (keep refrigerated after opening). Lime-caramel ice cream A brilliant recipe by American chef Charlie Trotter. For best results, use an ice-cream maker. Ingredients (for about 750 ml. ice cream) 2 cups whipping cream 1 tsp. grated lime zest 2/3 cup sugar 4 egg yolks 3 tbsp. lime juice In a small pot, bring cream and lime zest to a boil. Remove from heat and cover. In another small pot, cook sugar on medium heat until it melts into golden-brown caramel (5-7 minutes). Add the warm cream to the caramel and stir until the mixture is uniform. If the caramel hardens, put back on low heat and stir until it melts again. In a bowl, beat egg yolks and add a little of the cream to temper yolks (do not skip this stage, or the yolks may congeal). Add the yolks to the pot of cream, return to stove and cook on low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and begins to steam. Strain the mixture through a fine strainer into a bowl (preferably a fine stainless-steel one). Fill a bigger bowl with ice water and place the bowl of ice-cream mixture inside. Stir to cool the mixture quickly. Once cold, add the lime juice and stir well. Freeze in an ice-cream maker and keep in the freezer. doramg@haaretz.co.il Bookmark to del.icio.us   Tears of joy Shahar Zubari's bronze medal was Israel's first of the 2008 Beijing Olympics. 'Germ of corruption' Mahmoud Ahmadinejad repeats his prediction that Israel will be wiped off the map.

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