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Wine and Spirits / Critics' darling By Daniel Rogov In recent months Israeli wines have become the darling of critics in the United States. Several months ago, for example, Robert Parker, by far the most influential wine critic in the world, tasted 90 Israeli wines. In his prestigious Wine Advocate he gave 13 of those wines scores of 90-93, reserved for wines of "exceptional complexity and character." Equally important, 58 wines received scores of between 85-89, putting them in Parker's ratings as "wines that are very good to excellent." Even more recently, Wine Spectator rated 39 Israeli wines, of which 13 attained scores of 90 or 91 (outstanding and of superior character and style), while the remainder received 87-89 points (very good, wines with special qualities). Advertisement Just as not all of the wines of Bordeaux, Tuscany, Rioja or California are "great," neither are those of Israel. The happy truth, however, is that it is very difficult to deny that Israel is most definitely on the world wine map, with some very fine wines indeed. Following are tasting notes for recent releases from Carmel and several smaller wineries. Carmel, Limited Edition, 2005: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (65 percent, 17 percent, 15 percent and 3 percent, respectively). Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and reflecting its 15 months in barriques with light toasty and spicy oak. Blackberry, black cherry and purple plum on first attack yield to blackcurrant and appealing hints of lead pencil and vanilla and, on the long, mouth-filling finish, a near-sweet and elegant tobacco note. Round and elegant. Drink now through 2013. NIS 230. Score 92. Kosher. Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2005: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, full-bodied, with silky tannins, wood and fruit showing fine balance and structure. Opens with a burst of dark plum and currant yielding to notes of asphalt, bitter herbs and sweet-and-spicy cedar wood. Comes together as elegant, complex and long. Drink now through 2012. NIS 120. Score 91. Kosher. Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2005: Dark garnet with green and orange reflections, full-bodied, open textured and generous showing a spicy, peppery mouthful of blackberry, currant, coffee and black olive notes, all leading to a long, round and mouth-filling finish on which one finds an appealing note of vanilla. Oak-aged for 15 months. As this one develops in the bottle look for an appealing hint of smoked meat. Drink now through 2013. NIS 120. Score 91. Kosher. Carmel, Chardonnay, Appellation, Upper Galilee 2007: Light golden with green tints, medium-bodied, showing an appealing array of citrus, green apple and tropical fruits on a mineral-rich background. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 88. Kosher. Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2007: Medium-bodied, with gentle sweetness backed up lively acidity. Light gold in color with orange reflections, aromatic, unoaked and showing tempting aromas and flavors of oranges, litchi and rosewater. A good aperitif or dessert wine. Drink now through 2009. NIS 60. Score 88. Kosher. Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2006: Medium-dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with velvety tannins. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, black cherry, tar and spices coming together beautifully and opening on the long finish to show a hint of sweet chewing tobacco. Drink from release through 2012. NIS 130. Score 91. Pelter, Shiraz, T-Selection, 2006: Dark ruby, full-bodied but with such fine balance between tannins, oak, acidity and fruits that it seems to almost float on the palate. On first attack generous blackberry and currant yielding comfortably to plum, licorice and spices, all of which carry on to a long and generous finish. Best 2009-2013. NIS 160. Score 91. Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2006: Rich and concentrated, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting its 10 months in barriques with gently spicy oak. On the nose and palate a generous and intriguing array of aromas and flavors including currant, blackberry, plum, nutmeg, sage and vanilla, and ending with the tannins and oak rising on the finish together with hints of grilled beef and clove. A fine wine but frankly overpriced at NIS 240. Drink now through 2010. Score 91. Avidan, Reserve, Shiraz, 2006: Deep garnet in color, dense, intense and full-bodied and unfolding on the palate to reveal soft, mouth-coating tannins, rich blackberry, dark plum and peppery spices, along with overall fine balance. Long and generous. Drink now through 2012. NIS 120. Tentative score 89. Avidan, Blend des Noirs, Orange, 2006: Garnet toward royal purple, an oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Medium- to full-bodied with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant opening to show notes of orange peel and chocolate. Drink now through 2010. NIS 75. Score 86. Avidan, Blend des Noirs, Red, 2006: Aged in French and American oak for 10 months, a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah (45 percent, 35 percent and 20 percent, respectively). Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky, somewhat coarse tannins, showing straightforward berry and currant notes. A pleasant, country-style wine. Drink now. NIS 75. Score 85. Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Blended with 15 percent Merlot and developed partly in American and partly in French oak, medium- to full-bodied, with now softened tannins and vanilla-rich wood. Opens to reveal currant, blackberry, black cherry, spicy cedar and hints of sage. On the long finish, cherry and berry fruits rise. Drink now through 2011. NIS 75. Score 90. Chateau Golan, Geshem White, 2007: An oak-aged blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, French Colombard and Roussanne (63 percent, 29 percent, 7 percent and 1 percent, respectively) that cannot help but call to mind the white wines of the Rhone Valley. Opens with a floral, almost honeysuckle nose and then goes on to show melon, white peach, almond and buttery notes on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, smooth and creamy in texture, a quiet wine, elegant perhaps but lacking the mineral and acidity in the backbone that might have elevated it to a far higher level of enjoyment. Drink now. NIS 155. Score 88. 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