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Israel - the new destination for wine connoisseurs
Daniel Rogov
In recent months, Israeli wines have become the darlings of American wine critics. Several months ago, for example, Robert Parker, undoubtedly one of the most influential wine critics in the world, tasted 90 Israeli wines. In subsequent reviews he has written, Parker gave 13 of those wines a score between 90 and 93 points - a rating reserved for wines he describes as "an outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character." Parker gave 58 of the wines a rating between 85 and 89, which he describes as "above average to very good."
Upscale magazine Wine Spectator reviewed 39 Israeli wines in June, and 13 of them won a rating between 90 and 91 points ("Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style"). The remainder of the wines received a rating of 87-89 ("Very good: a wine with special qualities"). If we needed further proof that Israel has carved out a spot for itself on the global wine map, there is no better proof than this.
Carmel 2005, Limited Edition
A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (60%, 18%, 18% and 4% respectively). Dark ruby to garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and reflecting its 15 months in barriques, showing light toasty and spicy oak.
With super-soft tannins, not quite as deep as earlier releases of this wine but showing both complexity and elegance.
Blackberry and black cherry fruits on first attack, those yielding to blackcurrants and appealing hints of vanilla and, on the moderately-long finish a near-sweet tobacco note. Drink from release until 2012.
PRICE: NIS 230
RATING: 92
KOSHER
Carmel, Shiraz, Kayoumi, 2005
Wine with a dark, almost opaque color with a full body, velvety tannins and exquisite balance and composition. Begins with a flood of dark plum and currant that give way to levels asphalt, bitter herbs and sweet spicy cedar wood. Elegant, complex and long.
Drink from release until 2012.
PRICE: NIS 120
RATING: 91
KOSHER
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kayoumi, 2005
The wine, possessing a dark color with green and orange reflections, is fermented in oak barrels for 15 months.
It reveals a full body and peppery flavors spiced with blackberry, currant, coffee and black olives with a long finish. In the future, look for hints of smoked meat.
Drink from release until 2013
PRICE: NIS 120
RATING: 91
KOSHER
Carmel, Chardonnay, Regional Series, Upper Galilee, 2007
Wine with a golden straw color with green reflections, a medium body with notes of a handsome variety of citrus fruit, green apples, tropical fruit against a backdrop rich in minerals. Drink now.
PRICE: NIS 60
RATING: 88
KOSHER
Carmel, Gwurtztraminer, Regional Series, Upper Galilee, 2007
A wine possessing a light golden color with orange reflections, a medium body and subtle sweet notes complimented by invigorating sour notes.
An aromatic unoaked wine with tempting flavors and aromas of orange, lychee and rose water. This wine can be served as an aperitif or a desert wine.
Drink from release until 2009.
PRICE: NIS 60
RATING: 88
KOSHER
Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2006
A wine with a medium to dark color, a full body and velvety tannins. Flavors and aromas of black cherry, black currant, tar and spices that blend beautifully and open with a long finish to reveal a hint of sweet chewing tobacco.
Drink from now until 2012.
PRICE: NIS 130
RATING: 91
Pelter, Shiraz, T-Selection, 2006
A wine possessing a dark garnet color, a full body and such a superbly exquisite balance of tannins, oak and fruit that it almost feels as though it is floating on the palate.
The initial flavors include an abundance of blackberry and currant which give way to plum, licorice and spices, all of which remain consistent until the long generous finish.
At its best between 2009 and 2013.
PRICE: NIS 160
RATING: 91
Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2006
Rich and concentrated, the wine has a medium to full body with soft tannins that blend nicely and reflect the ten months in barriques.
Generous flavors and aromas evoke currant, blackberry, plum, nutmeg, sage and vanilla leading to a finish in which the tannins and the oak rise together with hints of roasted meat and clove. A very good wine, but a little expensive.
Drink from release until 2010.
PRICE: NIS 240
RATING: 91
Avidan, Reserve, Shiraz, 2006
Almost impenetrably deep garnet in color, opening with a light but pleasing musky aroma that fades in the glass and opens to reveal a wine so dense full-bodied that one might think of it as having the consistency of syrup.
All of which is fine though as the wine unfolds on the palate revealing soft tannins, rich blackberry, dark plum and peppery spices. Generous tannins here but those nicely integrated and overall showing fine balance. Long and generous finish.
Drink from release until 2011.
PRICE: NIS 120
RATING: 89
Chateau Golan, Geshem White, 2007
An oak-aged blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, French Colombard and Rousanne (63%, 29%, 7% and 1% respectively) that cannot help but call to mind the white wines of the Rhone Valley.
Opens with a floral, almost honeysuckle nose and then goes on to show melon, white peach, almond and buttery notes on the nose and palate.
Full-bodied, smooth and creamy in texture, a quiet wine, elegant perhaps but lacking the mineral and acidity in the backbone that might have elevated the wine to a far higher level of enjoyment.
Drink now.
PRICE: NIS 154
RATING: 88
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