Last update - 00:00 16/05/2007
Wine and Spirits / Fine homegrown wines
By Daniel Rogov
There was a time, not all that long ago, when wine connoisseurs turned to wineries from France, Italy and California for fine wines. Today, however, the market of fine local wines is so rich and varied that even the most critical wine lovers would have no problem drinking only Israeli wines for a given period of time.
The following are reviews of several good to excellent Israeli wines that have recently reached our shelves. All offer good value for your money.
Recanati, Cabernet Franc, Reserve, Franc, 2004: Aromatic, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely. Showing an appealing array of currant, plums and wild berries, which are complemented nicely by light smoky wood, tobacco and refreshing acidity. Drink now-2009. NIS 89. Score 90. K.
Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve, 2005: Dark and concentrated, with firm, crisp tannins integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich oak. On the nose and palate: blackberry, raspberry and black cherry fruits. These come together nicely with hints of minerals and an appealing light earthy note. Long and generous, but needs a bit of time to round out. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2008-2011. NIS 79. Score 90. K.
Recanati, Rose, 2006: The first rose released by the winery and very nice indeed. A blend of 96 percent Cabernet Franc and 4 percent Barbera, its color lies somewhere between rose petal pink and cherry red. A fun wine with fresh berry and strawberry fruits along with a touch of crisp minerality. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 69. Score 87. K.
Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marriage, Adom, 2004: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, opening with generous spicy-dusty oak on the nose, which yields nicely to black and red currants, crushed berries and appealing hints of licorice. A medium-bodied, smooth and round blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. Best now-2010. NIS 84. Score 90.
Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adom, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins in fine proportion to spicy and smoky wood and acidity. On the nose and palate: traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberry fruits; these are matched nicely by light tobacco and chocolate-coated orange peel on the long finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 79. Score 89.
Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 2003: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. An oak-aged blend of 88 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 12 percent Merlot. Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet in color, showing generous sweet-and-spicy wood and tannins, which are in fine balance with currant, black cherry and blackberry fruits. These flavors are supported by a complex array of herbs, spices and, on the long finish, a hint of raspberry liqueur. An elegant wine. Drink now-2009. NIS 140. Score 91.
Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2005: After developing for 12 months in French and American oak, 20 percent of which was new, showing dark ruby to garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and dusty wood highlighting intense currant, blackberry, black cherry and mocha aromas and flavors, those with a long, generous and elegant finish. Best 2008-2012. NIS 120. Score 91.
Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2005: As during barrel tastings, dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely and showing generous, but well-proportioned blackberries, currants, lead pencil and sweet herbal aromas and flavors. Intense, with the tannins and fruit rising on a long finish. Best 2008-2012. NIS 120. Score 91.