Last update - 01:20 02/05/2007
From three of the very best
By Daniel Rogov
The Golan Heights winery is no doubt the very best winery in Israel, but among boutique wineries the Domaine du Castel stands out as one of the very best. Castel, which produces about 100,000 bottles annually, and the Golan Heights Winery, which currently produces some 6 million bottles, have both recently released wines. Also new are several wines from the Vitkin winery, a boutique winery that is increasingly catching the eye of the most sophisticated wine lovers and currently produces about 30,000 bottles annually.
Castel
Castel, Grand Vin, 2004: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc coming together as a remarkably satisfying whole. Dark garnet to inky black, full-bodied, with deep, firm tannins integrating nicely with smoky, spicy wood and fruits. Opens with blackberries and chocolate, which yield to currants and raspberries, followed by an array of licorice and tobacco that play on the palate. Long, generous and elegant. Approachable now but best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. One of Castel's very best. NIS 190. Score 94. K
Castel, Petit Castel, 2005: A blend primarily of Merlot, supplemented by Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in oak for 16 months, this appealing dark ruby red, aromatic wine opens with red berries and spices, which go on to black cherries and chocolate, those blossoming on the palate to reveal hints of licorice and a light floral note. Generous, with a tantalizing hint of sweetness on the long finish. As Castel's second wine, it has no need to take second place. Best 2008-2011. NIS 150. Score 91. K
Castel, "C", Chardonnay, 2005: Bright golden, full-bodied and concentrated, perhaps the winery's most Burgundy-like wine, but still bearing the signature light but not imposing buttery and spicy sensations. As at barrel tastings, rich, complex and opulent with multiple players of citrus, figs, pears and white peaches, all opening beautifully on the palate. Finesse and elegance are the keywords here. Approachable now but best 2008-2011. NIS 120. Score 93. K
Golan Heights Winery
Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2003: Dark cherry to garnet in color, medium- to full bodied, with soft tannins and an undercurrent of spicy oak, this wine shows a tempting array of blackberry, black cherry and cassis fruits, with a long floral and light mineral-earthy finish. Drink now-2012. NIS 99. Score 91. K
Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2005: Aged partly in barriques, partly in stainless steel, this wine reflects a gentle hand with spicy wood. Lively golden in color, full-bodied, with nectarine, peach, kiwi and hints of citrus that play nicely on the palate along with aromas and flavors of spring flowers. Drink now-2008, perhaps longer. NIS 72. Score 90. K
Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2004: The once-firm tannins are now nicely settled, and the wine shows fine balance with gentle wood and fruits. On the nose and palate look for wild berries, black cherry, licorice and violets, all coming together in a soft, round and pleasing red. Drink now-2009. NIS 68. Score 88.
Golan Heights Winery, Mount Hermon Red, 2006: A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (45 percent, 40 percent and 15 percent respectively). Dark cherry red and medium-bodied, with soft, almost unfelt tannins and generous berry and black cherry fruits, this is an aromatic and straightforward quaffer. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 38. Score 84. K
Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, Yarden, 2004: Made from Gewurztraminer grapes frozen at the winery, the wine this year offers its usual share of elegance and richness. On the nose and palate look for apricot, peach and spices on a richly honeyed and floral background. Drink now-2009. NIS 99. Score 91. K
Golan Heights Winery, Moscato, Golan, 2006: Made from Muscat Canelli grapes, generously sweet, with good balancing acidity, and remarkably floral on the nose, much in the style of Moscato d'Asti. Look for aromas and flavors of green apples, ripe white peaches, tropical fruits and a hint of grapefruit, all with a nice fizziness. Nothing complex here, but fun and delicious. Drink up. Score 87. K
Vitkin
Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2005: Golden straw in color, this medium-bodied and deeply aromatic white wine shows appealing flowery and citrus aromas, and on the palate, fine balancing acidity and citrus, melon and green gage plums, all with a hint of the oily aromas that give the wines of Alsace their great charm. Drink now-2008. NIS 70. Score 89.
Vitkin, Pinot Noir, 2005: Made from grapes harvested in the Judean Hills, aged in new and used French oak for 15 months, this wine is medium-bodied and fresh, with soft tannins that integrate well with raspberry, blackberry and cherry fruits. This comes on an elegant background of persimmons, hazelnuts and even a hint of cola. Drink now-2009. NIS 75. Score 88.
Vitkin, Fortified, n.v.: This red dessert wine, a blend of Carignan, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon, was aged in separate batches in oak for one to four years, and then reinforced with white brandy. The wine is dark ruby to purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, generously sweet, with black cherry, and super-ripe red plums. The wine will remind some of Ruby Port. NIS 120. Score 85.