Last update - 10:50 02/04/2007
The joy of walnuts and almonds
Nuts are a delightful addition to countless festive Pesach dishes, during a week when flour is not allowed
By Doram Gaunt
It is not easy to describe food, to verbally transmit the sensations that foods awaken in our mouths. Many metaphors and images have been invented for this, and one of the abstract compliments applied to food is "nutty," a term that embodies a complex collection of bursts of flavor and textures both smooth and crunchy. It has been used to describe semi-burnt butter, cheese, bread, eggplant - and the list goes on.
Like many other traditions, the connection between nuts and Pesach remains shrouded in mystery. One thing that is certain is the unique flavor and richness that nuts add to festive Pesach dishes, during a week when flour is not allowed.
Here are a few things worth knowing about nuts:
Many varieties of nuts have a fat content of over 50 percent, and are very rich in protein, minerals, anti-oxidants, vitamin E and nutritional fibers. Most nuts have a deep flavor and a delightfully crunchy texture, especially after light toasting or frying (overdoing it will diminish their nutritional value).
The high fat content in nuts increases their risk of becoming rancid, but nutmeats left in their shells keep longer than shelled nuts. Freshly shelled nuts have a much higher nutritional value and are easier to digest.
Light, heat and moisture are harmful to nuts, so they are best stored in dark, airtight containers, and can be refrigerated or frozen (though they are best eaten at room temperature).
The thin skin that covers many types of nuts also has a high nutritional value, but sometimes interferes with the nut's texture and flavor. If you want to remove this skin, the nuts can be blanched for a few minutes in boiling water with a little baking soda (this works particularly well for almonds), or roasted at high temperature for a few minutes and rubbed with a towel (most suitable for hazelnuts, peanuts, walnuts and chestnuts).
Spiced pecans
An addictive snack.
500 grams shelled pecans
50 grams butter, melted
leaves from five sprigs of thyme
1 tablespoon paprika (some sweet, some hot, according to taste)
1 teaspoon black pepper
a few drops of Tabasco sauce
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sesame oil
Combine all the ingredients except the pecans in a large bowl. Add the pecans and mix until coated on all sides.
Spread the pecans in a single layer on a baking pan lined with baking paper.
Toast for 10-12 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius. Cool and store in an airtight container.
Carp with walnuts
The list of ingredients is reminiscent of gefilte fish, but the preparation and results are completely different.
For 4 portions.
1 carp weighing about 1.4 kilos, cleaned and sliced into 3-centimeter steaks (about 900 grams net weight)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup matza meal
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup water
juice of one lemon
1 tablespoon sugar
2 carrots, peeled and sliced into thin circles
1 red onion, peeled and sliced into rings
1 small sprig parsley
100 grams shelled walnuts
salt and pepper
Combine the matza meal with the paprika, cinnamon, salt and pepper.
Heat the oil in a wide ovenproof frying pan with a lid.
Dip the fish in the beaten egg and then in the seasoned matza meal, and fry lightly in the oil. Add the water, lemon juice and sugar to the oil, and top the fish with the carrots, onion, parsley and walnuts. Season with salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil, cover and transfer to an oven preheated to 180 degrees Celsius, for about 30 minutes, until the fish is completely cooked.
Serve hot or cold, with chrane (horseradish and beet sauce).
Nut pralines
Carmelized nuts chopped or ground to various consistencies are an ingredient in countless desserts, and can be prepared in advance, using any kind of nuts.For 250 grams.
3/4 cup sugar
3/4 cup (100 grams) whole, shelled, unsalted hazelnuts (or other nuts)
Heat the sugar in a small, heavy pot over a low flame, until it melts and browns (be careful not to burn).
Stir in the nuts, continuing to heat over a low flame, until the caramelized sugar recovers from the cold shock from the room-temperature nuts, melts again and completely coats the nuts.
Tip the nuts out onto baking paper that has been lightly greased with butter, and spread evenly in a single layer. When the pralines cool, break them up with your hands and chop coarsely with a knife or grind in a food processor.
Use to cover or decorate cakes and desserts, as an ice cream topping, etc.
Caramel and hazelnut ice cream
The combination of caramel and hazelnuts is simply divine. Here the decadence is shared by rich ice cream based on sweet cream and egg yolks. For 1 liter.
3/4 cup sugar
500 milliliters (2 cups) sweet whipping cream
120 milliliters (1/2 cup) milk
4 egg yolks
150 grams (1 ½ cups) finely ground hazelnuts
2/3 coarsely chopped hazelnut brittle (see previous recipe)
Heat the sugar in a small, heavy pot over a low flame, until it melts and browns. Stir in the sweet cream and milk and continue to heat, over a low flame, until the caramelized sugar melts again and the mixture is almost boiling.
Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl and temper the yolks by adding half a cup of the cream and caramel mixture. Pour the egg-yolk mixture back into the pot and stir constantly (or the yolks will curdle) over a low flame until the mixture thickens. Add the ground hazelnuts and cool one more minute.
Put the pot into a large bowl filled with ice water, to chill the mixture quickly. When the mixture is cold, transfer it to an ice cream machine and freeze. Add the chopped pralines to the ice cream a few minutes before it freezes.
Almond cream and meringue with mocha topping
A delightfully rich dessert. Quantities can be doubled for a larger pan. Can be prepared a day or two in advance.
For the meringue (for springform pan 18 centimeters in diameter):
2 egg whites, at room temperature
3/4 cup sugar
50 grams (1/2 cup) ground almonds
For the almond cream:
1 cup milk
2 egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon corn starch (can be omitted if you don't eat legumes on Pesach)
100 grams (1 cup) finely ground almonds
For the mocha topping:
250 milliliters (1 cup) sweet whipping cream
3 teaspoons instant coffee
3 tablespoons sugar
For the garnish:
Cocoa powder or finely ground pralines
The meringue:
Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and continue beating until very firm. Fold in the ground almonds. Using a pastry bag, make a circle of meringue mixture 1 centimeter thick and the same size as the cake pan, on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Make meringue kisses with the remaining mixture.
Bake for 90 minutes in an oven preheated to 120 degrees Celsius, and let cool in the oven.
The almond cream:
Heat the milk in a small pot until almost boiling. Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl with the sugar and corn starch.
Temper the egg-yolk mixture by stirring in about a cup of the hot milk, and return this mixture to the pot of milk, along with the ground almonds. Stir constantly over a low flame (to prevent the yolks from curdling) until the cream thickens. Cool slightly.
Set the circle of meringue in the springform pan or baking ring. Spread with the almond cream and freeze until set.
The topping:
Whip the sweet cream with the instant coffee and sugar. Spread the whipped cream on top of the almond cream. Freeze again.
To serve: Dust the cake with cocoa or sprinkle with ground nut pralines. Warm the outside of the pan with a hair dryer and remove the cake ring. Thaw completely (at least 6 hours) in the refrigerator before serving.