Last update - 00:00 10/01/2007
Wine and Spirits / A kosher beauty from Spain
By Daniel Rogov
Wines of the Capcanes winery in Spain have finally arrived in Israel. While located in Priorat, its owners consider themselves Catalonians. Capcanes was the first producer in Spain to produce a kosher wine. Its kosher Flor de Primavera, which since its release in 1985 has consistently received rave reviews worldwide, and other wines reviewed are available in Israel only through the importer, Remy Berrebi of Mincol Co. The company's showroom is located at 59 Matalon Street in Tel Aviv but advance appointment is strongly recommended. The company can be reached by telephone at (03) 687-6416 or by email at remy@netvision.net.il.
Capcanes, Flor de Primavera/Peraj Ha'Abib, 2003: A blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carinena and Tempranillo (40percent, 35 percent, 30 percent and 5 percent respectively) aged in new and year-old French barriques for about 12 months. Once firm tannins integrating nicely with wood, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, cherry and raspberry fruits matched well by overlays of coffee, licorice and a generous hint of minerals. On the long finish, look for a hint of peppermint. Drinking now till 2012. NIS 130. Score 91. K
Capcanes, Cabrida, 2004: Deep purple toward inky black, made from Garnacha vines 75-90 years old. Full-bodied, remarkably concentrated and powerfully tannic. Shows fine balance and structure. Aged for 12 months in mostly new French barriques and showing ripe plums and currants plus generous overlays of spices, espresso and dark chocolate. Drink now till 2015. NIS 250. Score 91.
Capcanes, Costers del Gravet, Priorat, 2002: Dark garnet to purple, full-bodied and concentrated, with firm tannins integrating nicely and well-balanced by spicy wood (the wine spent 12 months in new French barriques), acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate plums and black fruits leading to a long, fruity finish with an appealing hint of sweetness. Generous and concentrated. Drink now till 2009. NIS 85. Score 89.
Capcanes, Mas Collet, Tarragona, 2004: As always, a blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo, Carignana and Cabernet Sauvignon (35 percent, 25 percent , 25 percent and 15 percent respectively). Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and an appealing herbal overtone that complements aromas and flavors of currants and berries, spices and, from its eight months in oak, a light spicy note. Drink now till 2008. NIS 55. Score 87.
More from Spain
Rotllan Torra, Tirant, Reserva, Priorat, 2000: Oh dear, how this wine has developed beautifully! Enjoyed when in its extreme youth but now coming of age and showing exquisitely. Dark royal purple toward inky black, full-bodied, with its once gripping tannins now nicely integrated and showing fine structure and balance. Opens with plums and blackberries, goes to blackcurrants and vanilla, and then to tar, licorice and dried raisins, the vanilla rising throughout and making itself almost dominant but irresistibly so and finally on the super-long finish, white chocolate. Drinking beautifully now but best 2008-2014. NIS 390. Score 93.
Protos, Gran Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 1999: Made entirely from Tempranillo grapes that spent 30 months in French and American oak, a very nice wine indeed, showing medium- to full-bodied, with silky smooth tannins that highlight what are now soft hints of spicy oak and opening in the glass to reveal rich berry, cherry and cassis fruits, those backed up nicely by hints of Oriental spices and fresh herbs. Long, generous and mouth-filling. Drink now till 2009. NIS 320. Score 90.
Protos, Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 2001: A full-bodied Tempranillo, deep garnet, with firm but yielding tannins that show off a tempting array of plum, blackcurrant and vanilla aromas and flavors. Generous, moderately long and at its best with spicy, Spanish casserole dishes. Drink now till 2009. NIS 245. Score 89.
Protos, Crianza, Ribera del Duero, 2002: Call the grape Tinta del Pais as it is in Ribera or Tempranillo as it is in most of the rest of Spain. Aged for 12 months in American oak, this appealing little wine shows medium-bodied, softly tannic and offers appealing berry, black cherry and floral aromas and flavors. Not complex but a good match for chicken, veal or beef casserole dishes. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 190. Score 86.
Protos, Roble, Ribera del Duero, 2004: Dark ruby, medium-bodied, with somewhat chunky tannins that give the wine a countrified personality, but don't let that hold you back for even though straightforward and without complexities, this one has generous black fruits. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 120. Score 85.
Bodegas Virgin Blanca, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserva, Vina Sardasol, Navarra 2001: Dark ruby to garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrated nicely and showing appealing blackcurrant, wild berry and herbal-earthy aromas and flavors. Soft, round and with a moderately long, spicy finish. Drink now till 2009. NIS 110. Score 89.
Bodegas Virgin Blanc, Crianza, Vina Sardasol, Navarra, 2000: Based largely on Tempranillo grapes, aged in French oak. Medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrated tanninsú appealing plum and cassis aromas and flavors. A hint of blueberries on the finish. Drink now or in the next year. NIS 100. Score 87.
Bodegas Virgin Blanca, Tempranillo-Merlot, Vina Sardasol, Navarra 2004: A pleasant little red, with ripe berry, cherry and floral aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and generously fruity. Lacking complexity but a pleasant quaffer. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 110. Score 86.