Last update - 00:00 03/01/2007
Wine and Spirits / Expensive, but worth the price
By Daniel Rogov
Founded in 1999 by Itzik Zauberman and located in the town of Gedera in the southern coastal plain, this small winery draws on organic grapes from its own vineyards, as well as grapes from Karmei Yosef. Current production is about 3,000 bottles annually. The winery has consistently produced good to excellent wines, and if there has been any controversy surrounding the winery, it has to do with what some consider to be their outrageous prices.
Zauberman, Cabernet Sauvignon, Limited Edition, 2002: Deep garnet red, full-bodied, with intense tannins and generous, almost powerful wood flavors, which require time to settle and integrate with plum, raspberry and currant flavors and spicy and earthy aromas. On the long finish, generous hints of well-roasted nuts. Consider decanting this one 2-3 hours before drinking to let it open. Best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. An excellent wine but at a price that many will consider outrageous. NIS 550. Score 90.
Zauberman, Merlot, 2003: Dark ruby to garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with a good balance of generous smoky oak flavors, firm but caressing tannins and black and red berry fruits. Drink now-2009. NIS 160. Score 89.
New Releases from Tishbi
Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc, Jonathan Tishbi Special Reserve, 2004: Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, this oak-aged blend was made entirely from grapes harvested at Sde Boker in the Negev. A good balance of still firm tannins, spicy wood and black fruit flavors, matched by tobacco and chocolate that lead to a long, lightly minty finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 110. Score 90.
Tishbi, Merlot, Jonathan Tishbi Special Reserve, 2002: Dark ruby to garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm but nicely yielding tannins. On the nose and palate: a bare hint of earthy charm to complement black cherry, cassis and mineral aromas and flavors. On the finish: an appealing hint of dark chocolate. Drink now-2008, perhaps longer. NIS 135. Score 89.
Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, 2003: Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing a gentle spicy oak influence, with appealing blackcurrant and blackberry fruits. A round, medium-long and lightly peppery finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 70. Score 86.
Tishbi, Merlot, Estate, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Deep garnet red, medium-bodied, with firm tannins that yield in the glass. Good balance between lightly smoky wood and plum and currant fruits all leading to a moderately long finish. Drink now. NIS 70. Score 86.
Tishbi, Syrah, Estate, 2005: Medium-dark cherry red in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing cherry, raspberry and spicy aromas and flavors. Lacks varietal characteristics but a very pleasant quaffer. Drink now-2008. NIS 70. Score 86.
Tishbi, Merlot, Vineyards, 2005: Deep garnet to purple in color, medium-bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing raspberry, red currant and cherry fruit flavors, which sit well on a lightly spicy and herbal background. Round and medium-long. Drink now-2009. NIS 38. Score 87.
Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyards, 2005:Garnet red in color with orange and purple reflections, medium-bodied, with caressing soft tannins and generous blackcurrant, blackberry and orange peel aromas and flavors on a lightly spiced background. Drink now-2009. NIS 38. Score 87.
Three from Carmel
Carmel, Merlot, Regional, Upper Galilee, 2004: Blended with 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, reflecting its aging in French oak for 12 months. On the nose: spicy, near-sweet tannins. Plum and cassis fruit flavors show up on the palate, with appealing hints of sweet chewing tobacco and eucalyptus on the moderately long finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 75. Score 87.
Carmel, Petite Sirah, Regional, Judean Mountains, 2004: Garnet to royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied with chunky tannins that give the wine an appealing country-style. Look for aromas and flavors of wild berries, citrus peel and spring flowers leading to a moderately long finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 68. Score 86.
Carmel, Shiraz, Private Collection, 2005: Made from Shiraz grapes from the Upper Galilee. This is an appealing red, but one that might keep you guessing as to which variety it was made from. Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet to purple in color, with soft tannins yielding nicely to reveal plum and raspberry flavors with peppery overtones. Drink now-2009. Score 86.
Best buy of the week
Ruffino, Chianti, 2005: Dark cherry-red in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, gentle acidity and generous red berry fruits. Absolutely nothing complex here, but a delightful quaffing wine with pasta or pizza. Drink now. NIS 50. Score 85.