Last update - 00:00 13/09/2006
Wine and Spirits / Generous tannins at a great price
By Daniel Rogov
Three medium-sized local wineries (Galil Mountain, Recanati and Tishbi) and three boutiques (Sea Horse, La Terra Promessa and Tulip) have recently released some worthwhile red and white wines. I have noted the prices charged by major wine stores. It is worth keeping in mind that you could pay 15-20 percent less for wine when purchasing directly from the boutiques. All of the wines reviewed are a good value for your money.
Galil Mountain, Yiron, 2003: A blend of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 percent Merlot and 5 percent Syrah. Young and vibrant but revealing complexity, depth and elegance. Dark royal purple in color, with firm but nicely integrating tannins, judicious wood and layers of spicy currant, anise, tar and cedary oak aromas. These flavors blend nicely on the long finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 80. Score 92.
Galil Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Deep and dark, medium- to full-bodied, with generous near sweet tannins highlighting ripe plum and berry fruits, spices and a tantalizing overlay of porcini mushrooms. Drink now-2009. NIS 43. Score 89.
Galil Mountain, Merlot, 2005: Deep, almost inky black garnet in color, full-bodied, with ripe berry, currant, green pepper and light herbal aromas and flavors, which come together to create a deep and complex wine. Best from 2008. NIS 43. Score 89.
Galil Mountain, Shiraz-Cabernet, 2004: Deep royal purple, this medium- to full-bodied blend of 64 percent Shiraz and 36 percent Cabernet Sauvignon shows remarkably smooth tannins and a generous array of blackberry and blueberry fruits. These are set off nicely by hints of green peppers and a light influence of vanilla. Generous and mouth-filling. Drink now-2009. NIS 57. Score 89.
Recanati, Barbera, 2004: Made entirely from grapes from the Manara vineyard, this youthful royal purple to dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied red shows excellent balance between gentle oak, acidity and a tempting array of plum, black cherry and currant fruits. These are matched nicely by overtones of freshly turned earth and chocolate. As the wine develops in the bottle look for hints of tobacco and white truffles. Drink now-2010. NIS 59. Score 90.
Sea Horse, Antoine, Tete de Cuvee, 2004: Made from low yield, organically raised Syrah vines, aged in Burgundy barrels for 16 months, this dark purple to black wine is plump, rich and well-balanced. This wine is full-bodied, with spicy and peppery overlays highlighting plum, currant and wild berry flavors. It has just the barest hint of Brett to add a pleasing earthy charm. Destined for elegance. Best 2007-2010. NIS 96. Score 91.
Sea Horse, Antoine, 2004: Dark garnet to royal purple in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins, but with fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate: an appealing array of plum, blackberry and licorice. These are matched nicely by near-sweet oak, all leading to a long, generously spicy finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 91.
Sea Horse, Lennon, 2004: Look for a bit of bottle stink (the near-sweet, almost caramel kind that characterizes Rioja Reserva wines) when the wine is first opened, but don't let that put you off. This initial stink blows off within minutes leaving a lovely wine. Made from low yield vines and 5 percent Petite Sirah, this high in alcohol version leans toward red berries, red plums and cassis. Reflecting 14 months in American and French oak with peppery, vanilla and eucalyptus flavors, this well-structured wine is firm and concentrated. Drink now-2009. NIS 99. Score 89.
Tishbi, Chardonnay, Special Reserve, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, appealing golden color and with generous but not overpowering oak highlighting creamy aromas and flavors of pears, peaches and vanilla. Drink now-2008. NIS 75. Score 88.
Tulip, Syrah, Reserve, 2004: Full-bodied, with generous dusty, smoky oak and firm tannins, which are balanced with black fruits, chocolate and earthy-animal aromas and flavors. Needs time to settle down but bodes well for the future. Drink now-2010. NIS 75. Score 88.
La Terra Promessa, La Crime, 2004: Syrah, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc come together nicely in a medium- to full-bodied red, showing gentle oak, soft tannins, and an appealing overlay of bitterness that highlights plum, berry, and meaty-earthy aromas and flavors. Drink now-2008. NIS 80. Score 88.