Wine from the Rhine

Few German wine producers have a better reputation than Gunderloch. Located in the Rheinhessen area (think of the charming road along the banks of the Rhine that meanders from Weisbaden to Koln) and founded in 1890, their wines frequently earn scores between 95 and 99. Many of their wines, especially the super-sweet Trockenbeerenauslese and Beerenauslese wines from their Nackenheim Rothenberg vineyard even attain the much sought-after score of 100. The wines are aged in neutral oak casks (that is to say, oak that has been used for anywhere from 10-100 years), in order to maintain natural flavors.

I recently attended a tasting of the Gunderloch wines now appearing locally. Fritz Hasselbach, one of the owners and the senior winemaker of the winery, was there. The wines are imported by and available from Giaconda and the best way to order is direct. A discount is given to members of their internet site. Membership is free and carries no strings whatsoever. Best way to join is to visit their site at www.giaconda.co.il.

Gunderloch, Riesling, Auslese, Nackenheim Rothenberg, Goldkapsel, Rheinhessen, 2007: Packed with botrytis, dark golden in color, a full-bodied, almost thick wine opening with fresh ripe apricots and candied citrus peel, going on to reveal richly honeyed dried summer fruits on generously spicy background. Deep, almost intense sweetness set off and balanced by lively acidity, a wine so concentrated at this stage that it seems to pour slowly from the bottle. Approachable and exquisite now but given time for its elements to knit together it will show even better. Best from 2014-2050. NIS 360. Score 97.

Gunderloch, Riesling, Trocken, Nackenheim Rothenberg, Grand Cru, Rheinhessen, 2007: Dark golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with a rich presence of minerals and finely tuned acidity to highlight a rich array of white peach, green apple and aromas and flavors, all coming together as an elegant and coherent whole. On the super-long finish a tantalizing hint of anise. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable now but best 2011-2018. NIS 260. Score 93.

Gunderloch, Riesling, Auslese, Drei Sterne, Rheinhessen, 2007: Fermented with wild yeasts, with no botrytis impact, a medium-bodied, moderately sweet wine that opens to show rich and aromatic, with appealing summer fruits, mango and minerals on the nose and palate. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2015. NIS 235. Score 91. Gunderloch, Riesling, Kabinett, Jean-Baptiste, Rheinhessen, 2007: Light gold with bare peach-pink blush reflections, with a gently frizzante note, showing a tantalizing array of peach, orange, tropical fruits and green apple flavors. Rich and well balanced, categorized as dry but with a most appealing light hint of sweetness that lingers nicely on a long finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 90. Score 89.

Gunderloch, Riesling, Trocken, Rheinhessen, 2007: Light but shining golden in color, opening with a nose of green apples and the barest hint of petrol, opening in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of peaches, nectarines and spiced pears. Crisply dry, with fine balancing acidity. Light to medium-bodied, seems almost to float on the palate. Drink now-2011. NIS 80. Score 88.

The boot's best

The wines of Tommasi are no strangers to Israel, having been imported as early as 2002. Located northwest of the city of Verona in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region of Veneto, the winery was founded in 1902.

In addition to producing Amarone, Valpolicella Classico and Ripasso wines, the family owned winery also has holdings in Marema in the south of Tuscany. At a recent tasting hosted by the importers, the Derekh Ha-Yain chain of wine stores, and in the company of Pierangelo Tommasi, one of the members of the family that owns the winery, I sampled wines now arriving in Israel.

Tommasi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, 2004: Ripe and rich, full-bodied, with gently caressing tannin. Opens with a black licorice and chocolate nose, goes on to reveal a palate with black and red currants, tropical fruits and hints of Oriental spices. As the wine opens in the glass look as well for the enchanting sweet illusion so often presented by Amarone. Don?t let that confuse you, though, for that sweetness is in truth a generous note of ripe raspberries. Long and complex. Best 2011-2018. NIS 279. Score 91.

Tommasi, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Ripasso, Veneto, 2006: Opens with a tantalizing hint of earthiness, yielding to a comfortable array of blackberry, bitter citrus peel and minerals, all on a medium to full-bodied frame. A blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Corvinone grapes ?(70 percent, 25 percent and five percent respectively?), aged for 18 months on the lees of other wines to add flavor and the illusion of bittersweetness, with the tannins caressing nicely. Drink now-2011. NIS 110. Score 88.

Tommasi, Alicante, Poggio Al Tufo, Marema, Tuscany, 2007: Made from Alicante Bouschet grapes, deep ruby towards garnet, medium to full-bodied with gently caressing tannins and light hints of spicy wood after having been aged in large oak vats for 12 months. On the nose and palate appealing red and black berries, those with a near-jammy note along with a hint of red licorice. Whatever hint of sweetness is found here is set off nicely by notes of pepper and red licorice. Drink now-2011. NIS 120. Score 87.

Tommasi, Vermentino, Poggio al Tufo, Marema, Tuscany, 2008: The white Vermentino grape originated in Corsica and Sardinia, made its way to Languedoc-Rousillon in France and, in recent years has attained greater popularity in Tuscany. A simple but pleasant, aromatic and gently acidic white, light gold in color, with appealing floral, melon and citrus aromas and flavors. Drink now. NIS 75. Score 86.

Tommasi, Brut, Veneto, n.v.: As it has always been, an unpretentious little sparkling wine made by the charmat method in which the secondary formation takes place in stainless steel vats. A generous but short mousse, plenty of bubbles here and pleasant, if not at all complex, citrus, apple and berry aromas and flavors. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, perhaps not as dry as its "brut" title implies. NIS 70. Score 85. Drink now.

Tommasi, Rompicolo, Poggio Al Tufo, Marema, Tuscany, 2007: A blend of 60 percent Sangiovese and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Developed in large oak casks for 12 months, showing medium-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins and appealing if not complex red currant, raspberry and spices on the nose and palate. Not complex but a good quaffer. Drink now. NIS 85. Score 85.