Giaconda is far from being Israel's largest local wine importer, but in the four years since launching its operations the company has consistently imported wines that can easily be categorized as of extraordinary high quality. Equally important, partners Anat Sela and Rafaella Ronen offer prices that are competitive on an international level, thanks to the company's policy of selling directly to clients and not having to maintain an actual store.
The latest label brought in by Giaconda is Weingut Georg Breuer. With its vineyards and winery in Rudesheim, one of the most charming villages of the Rheingau region of Germany, it relies on biodynamic principles. Whether one agrees with all of the aspects of biodynamics is unimportant. What is important is that this methodology implies a return to older, time-tested, low-tech methods that ensure Breuer wines are often superb.
Enrapturing Reislings
Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Nonnenberg, Auslese, Gold Kapsel, Rheingau, 2007: A dessert wine par-excellence. Deep gold with orange and green reflections, showing ample botrytis influence and with its whopping 145 grams of sugar balanced almost perfectly by crisp acidity. On the nose and palate dried figs, yellow peaches, citrus and citrus peel, supported nicely by notes of exotic spices. A concentrated wine with honeyed overtones that run from first attack through to a long, long finish. Fully enjoyable now but best 2013-2040, perhaps longer. NIS 380. Score 97.
Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Berg Schlossberg, Erste Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: An aromatic white, with hints of petrol and marzipan on the nose. Shining gold with green tints, medium-bodied but concentrated, showing crisply dry with generous notes of pear, passion fruit and citrus peel, all on a mineral-rich background. Graceful and elegant. Drink now-2020. NIS 340. Score 93.
Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Roseneck, Erste Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: Shining gold in color with green and orange tints; medium-bodied and crisply dry, with citrus and apple fruits on first attack, yielding to notes of guava, pineapple and minerals, all complemented by a note of a forest floor after a light rain. Lively, complex and elegant. Drink now-2018. NIS 300. Score 92.
Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Berg Rottland, Erste Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: Light gold with orange and green reflections, a dry, mineral-rich wine on which a tempting note of traditional Riesling petrol creeps in quietly. On the nose and palate white peaches, baked apples, spices and honeyed notes. Elegant and long. Drink now-2017. NIS 260. Score 91.
Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Berg Nonnenberg, Erste Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: Categorized as half-dry, but possessing enough minerality and acidity to give it a crisply refreshing note. Light shining bold, medium-bodied, deeply aromatic and with a nose that hints of citrus and bananas. On the palate an array of citrus and tropical fruits, with a tantalizing hint of marzipan. Drink now-2016. NIS 260. Score 90.
Two more from Giaconda
Not Rieslings in this case, but white wines with a bare and tantalizing hint of bitterness that make them particularly food-friendly.
F.X. Pichler, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, Urgstein Terrassen, Wachau, Austria, 2007: Opens with a hint of bittersweet peach pits, lingering through to a long finish, complementing aromas and flavors of sweet apples and ripe peaches and apricots. From mid-palate on, look for notes of bitter citrus peel. Fine balancing acidity in this deep golden wine, leading to a long and mouth-filling finish. Thoroughly enjoyable now, but don't hesitate to cellar this one until 2016, perhaps longer. NIS 140. Score 91.
Cave Yves Cuilleron, Saint Peray Blanc, Les Potiers, Northern Rhone, 2008: Made from Marsanne grapes, showing deep lemony gold with tints of orange and green. Opens with aromas and flavors of white peaches, parting to make way for notes of persimmon, bitter oranges and spices, and from mid-palate to the long finish a hint of lemon grass. Drink now-2011. NIS 140. Score 90.
