Wine and Spirits / The new Yogev line is just fine for your Binyamina days - and nights

Binyamina Wineries has just added Yogev, a new series of wines, to their repertoire and as a tip of the cap to the vintners, each bottle's label lists the growers and vineyards that supplied the grapes.

Consisting of four wines - one white, one rose and two reds - the series is aimed at both those just starting to become involved with wine and those who already consider themselves sophisticated drinkers. The series succeeds quite well in this, as both groups will find these wines well made, soft, round and easy to approach and match to food, despite their youth.

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Yogev, 2004: Light straw colored with green tinges, this light- to medium-bodied unoaked 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay offers up flavors and aromas of pineapple, citrus and mango on an appealing lightly herbal background. Just the barest hint of sweetness here but that with good balancing acidity. A good match to hors d'oeuvres and a large variety of fish and seafood dishes. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 87. K (*)

Binyamina, Cabernet-Sauvignon-Zinfandel, Rose, Yogev, 2004: Kept in contact with the skins for just enough time to pick up a deep red berry color, with the two varieties fermented separately and then blended just before bottling, this light- to medium-bodied rose shows tempting red berry, strawberry and spicy flavors and aromas. Best served very well chilled and either on its own or with light fish, veal or chicken dishes. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 86. K (*)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Yogev, 2004: Medium-bodied but a bit light on the palate, with soft, almost unfelt tannins, this blend of 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 50 percent Merlot was aged in used oak barrels for just eight months in order to prevent the oak from dominating. Straightforward berry, cassis and plum fruits make this a good quaffer. Drink now-2007. NIS 55. Score 85. K (*)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Yogev, 2004: A very successful half and half blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, each fermented with their skins for two weeks and, just like the preceding wine, aged intentionally in used oak barrels for eight months to avoid letting the oak dominate. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and tempting hints of vanilla and smoky oak that allow the spicy currant and berry, and the light earthiness of the wine to make themselves felt nicely. Drink now-2008. Score 88. K (*)

More from Israel

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2003: A rich and elegant wine with ripe pear, honeysuckle and melon flavors, all combining beautifully with hints of minerals, nutmeg and hazelnut on the long finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 68. Score 91. K (*)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, Yarden, 2003: As always, a tantalizing dessert wine, light- to medium-bodied with delicate honeyed apricot and peach aromas and flavors, good balancing acidity and an elegantly lingering finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 92. Score 90. K (*)

Recanati, Shiraz, 2003: Aged in new French and American oak, this dark ruby toward purple, medium-bodied wine shows moderate tannins and good balance along with enchanting aromas and flavors of jammy fruits containing spicy, peppery and licorice overtones, all reflecting a judicious use of oak. Drink now-2008. NIS 42. Score 89. (*)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing berry, currant and plum fruits, all with a hint of spice on the background. Drink now. NIS 42. Score 85.

Recanati, Barbera, 2003: Aged for nine months in used French barriques, this pleasant little cherry toward garnet colored, medium-bodied wine has light tannins that allow the cherry and berry flavors to come through nicely. Pleasant but lacking complexity. Drink now. NIS 42. Score 86. (*)

Saslove, Blanc de Noirs, 2004: Pale pink toward peach-colored at this stage of its development, and drinking somewhat better than in its extreme youth. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that were allowed a minimum of skin contact, it is medium-bodied with a surprisingly high 14.7 percent alcohol content and aromas and flavors of strawberries, blackberries and citrus. Young, fresh and fun to drink, especially when well chilled. Drink now. NIS 140. Score 87.

Yaffo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Deep garnet toward royal purple, this still firmly tannic, medium- to full-bodied and generously oaked wine shows structure and balance that bode well for its future. Already showing aromas and flavors of spicy black fruits, freshly picked herbs and an appealing earthy undercurrent that lingers nicely on the palate. Drink now-2008. NIS 85. Score 87.

Yaffo, Merlot, 2003: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and generous plum, cassis and spicy oak aromas and flavors. Drink now-2008. NIS 85. Score 86.

Yaffo, Blanc, Chardonnay, 2004: The color of damp straw, medium-bodied and showing appealing aromas and flavors of citrus and melon. Light mineral and flowery overlays. Drink now-2007. NIS 70. Score 86.

Ruth, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, well integrated tannins and generous currant, berry and cherry fruits. Good balance between smoky wood, fruits and a hint of tobacco on the finish. Drink now-2007. NIS 69. Score 87. K

Ruth, Merlot-Shiraz, 2003: Dark royal-purple with generous acidity but just the barest traces of tannins, this medium-bodied blend of equal parts of Merlot and Shiraz was aged in oak for about 10 months. Appealing aromas and flavors of plums and black berries and, starting on mid-palate, an earthy-herbal overlay. Serve lightly chilled. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 69. Score 85. K

Vitkin Blanc, 2004: A blend of 60 percent Viognier combined with French Colombard and Gewurztraminer grapes, with a generous hint of sweetness that not all may appreciate, this medium-bodied flowery wine shows lightly spicy aromas and flavors of mango, passion fruit and other tropical fruits. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 85.

Carmel, Private Collection, Gvat Zamarin, Red, 2004: An unoaked blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carignan and Petite Sirah. Medium-bodied with soft tannins and some blackberry, currant and spicy aromas and flavors. Lacks depth or complexity but is an acceptable quaffer. Drink now. NIS 36. Score 84. K