Wine and Spirits / Italian newcomers

Considering that serious wine critics taste anywhere between 5,000 and 10,000 wines a year, some of them costing the equivalent of $300 or more, no critic in the world can afford to buy all of the wines he or she tastes. That's why so many attend trade exhibitions and tastings and visit wineries. It's true that at most such events blind tasting is nigh impossible, but here I concur with critics such as Robert Parker, Tom Stevenson and Hugh Johnson that the critic who cannot ignore "label bias" and the spiel of the presenters does not deserve to be considered a professional.

I recently attended three tastings of newly arrived Italian wines, from three importers. My tasting notes follow.

These wines are available at the store of the importer, 23 Hata'arucha St. (the northern end of Dizengoff Street, at the entrance to the Tel Aviv Port). (03) 543-4543.

Pecchenino, Barolo, Le Coste, Piedmont, 2004: Full-bodied, with generous soft tannins, a concentrated wine, still firm but showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. Opens to show a tempting array of plum, cherry and wild berry complemented by notes of chocolate, espresso and licorice. Tannins rise on the long finish making the wine muscular at this stage, so give this one time to show its elegance. NIS 359. Best 2011-2020. Score 94.

Pecchenino, Barbera d'Alba, Quass, Piedmont, 2006: Developed for 12 months in small and large oak casks (225 and 2,500 liters), dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, opening with blackberry and black cherry going on to show notes of dried, almost jammy fruit and finishing with a generous hint of freshly turned earth. Smooth, round and generous. Drink now. NIS 140. Score 90.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, 2001: Dark ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with once firm tannins now integrating nicely with notes of smoky wood. On the nose and palate blackberry, ripe plum and blueberry matched comfortably by notes of licorice and spices. Drinking nicely now-2014. NIS 220. Score 91.

Ricasoli, Chianti Classico, Castello di Brolio, Tuscany, 2004: Developed in new and used oak for 18 months, showing softly mouth-coating tannins and notes of spicy wood, those integrating nicely to show blackberry, blueberry and mineral notes leading to a long and generous near-sweet finish. Drink now-2012. NIS 230. Score 91

Pecchenino, Dogliani, Siri d'Jemmu, Piedmont, 2006: Royal purple, made entirely from Dolcetto grapes, medium- to full-bodied and with soft tannins. Unoaked and showing ripe blackberry and black cherry supported nicely by notes of minerals and black pepper. Lingers nicely on the palate. Drink now. Score 88.

Distilleria Bottega, Il Vino dei Poeti, Prosecco, Veneto, n.v.: An appealing little Prosecco, fresh and bubbly, crisp and with appealing green apple, citrus and mineral notes. Sits light and fresh on the palate. Drink now. NIS 70. Score 86.

Pecchenini, Dolcetto di Dogliani, San Luigi, Piedmont, 2007: Medium-bodied and unoaked, made entirely from Dolcetto grapes, a pleasant little red, deep garnet toward royal purple in color, with wild berry and cherry on a background of red licorice. Round and generous. Drink now. NIS 92. Score 86.

The following wines can be ordered directly from the importer, at (054)753-8377.

Ca' del Bosco, Carmenero, Lombardy, 2001: Unusual primarily in that this is a grape that originated in Bordeaux, made itself famous in Chile and only recently made its way to Italy. All is fair though, for this is a lovely wine - dark garnet in color with purple and orange reflections, full-bodied, with an intense nose of ripe, near-sweet fruit (one might even think of jam), going on to reveal aromas and flavors of raspberry, red cherry, blueberry and minerals leading to a long, leathery finish on which one will also find a note of tobacco. Rich and focused. Drink now-2010. NIS 360. Score 92.

Cascina Chicco, Barolo, Rocche di Castelletto, Piedmont, 2004: Not a complex Barolo but a delightful one, medium- to full-bodied (leaning towards the full), with silky smooth tannins and opening to reveal appealing aromas and flavors of strawberry, black and red cherry and red currant against a tempting background of tar and earthy minerals. Drink now if you want, but best from 2010-2018. NIS 210. Score 91.

Giusseppe Bianchi, Sizzano, Piedmont, 2000: Made from Bonarda Uva Raro grapes, usually capable of producing light, fruity reds, especially when blended with Barbera grapes. Light- to medium-bodied, with almost unfelt tannins and a bit on the dilute side, and with a few raspberry and black cherry fruits. Lacks excitement. Drink up. NIS 129. Score 83.

The following wine can be found at the Tel Aviv and Jaffa branches of the Wine and More chain of wine shops.

Marchese de Frescobaldi, Chianti Rufina Reserva, Castello di Nipozano, 2005: 95% Sangiovese blended with small amounts of Malvasia Nero, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 12 months in small oak barrels. Garnet toward royal-purple in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins and gentle hints of wood integrated nicely to show blackberry, purple plum and chocolate notes finishing long and comfortably with a hint of citrus peel. Drink now-2011. NIS 130. Score 91.