Wine and Spirits / A little Italy in Florentin

 The Veneto-based Tedeschi winery recently held a tasting at the Methuselah wine bar on Uriel Acosta Street in Tel Aviv's Florentin neighborhood, led by Signore Riccardo Tedeschi, both the winemaker and a member of the owning family. I am not normally in favor of tastings where food is also served, but in this case I gladly made an exception for, as I've known for many years, the Tedeschi wines are indeed food-friendly and show their very best at the dinner table.

	Tedeschi wines rely on a variety of grapes indigenous to Veneto.

Located in the Valpolicella region of Veneto, Italy, on a site where grapes have been cultivated since 1630, the winery has been owned by the Tedeschi family since 1824 and produces about 500,000 bottles annually. From the lightest to the heaviest wines, from the simplest to the most complex, Veneto wineries rely heavily on various blends of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Negrara, Dindarella, Rossignola, Croatina and Forselina grapes, all indigenous to Veneto. At their best, these grapes can produce full-bodied, deeply aromatic, rich, complex wines capable of long-term cellaring. The wines are available at the Derekh Hayain (Wine Route ) chain of stores.

Tedeschi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Monte Olmi, Veneto, 2005: Dark, impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a personality rich in earthy minerals and freshly roasted herbs. On first attack black cherries, strawberries and raisins, parting to make way for plums and a generous sprinkling of black pepper. Intense, long and with an illusion of sweetness from mid-palate on, that cannot help but please. Drink now-2035. NIS 640. Score 94.

Tedeschi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, 2006: Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with a rich floral nose with notes of spicy wood. Opening nicely in the glass to show generous purple plums, figs and earthy minerals, parting from mid-palate to reveal blackberries, baking chocolate and a tantalizing note of bitter almonds. Long and generous. Enjoyable now, but best from mid-2011-2020. NIS 230. Score 92.

Tedeschi, Valpolicella Superiore Rosso, Vino di Ripasso, San Rocco, Veneto, 2006: Dark royal purple toward garnet, with a nose rich with tobacco, earthy notes and black fruits, medium- to full-bodied with soft, well integrated tannins. An oak-aged blend of 30% each of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, rounded out with other indigenous grapes. Showing soft and round, with abundant spices adding to the black cherry and blackberry fruits. Spices and tannins rise nicely on the juicy finish. Drink now-2012. NIS 100. Score 89.

Tedeschi, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto, 2007: Medium-dark garnet and medium- to full-bodied, a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Rossignola, Negrara and Dindarella grapes. Aged for about 16 months in oak, a remarkably smooth and delicate wine showing light notes of spices and earthy minerals, parting to reveal generous blackberry, blueberry and currant notes. A fine wine with antipasti. Drink now-2012. NIS 65. Score 88.

Three from Burgundy

Founded in 1880, headquartered in the city of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy, and still owned by the sixth generation of the same family, the firm of Joseph Drouhin produces a broad range of Burgundy wines - including many for everyday drinking at reasonable prices, as well as those that earn scores of 97 and higher. The Scottish Company, whose main store can be found at 26 Hataarucha Street at the Tel Aviv Port, imports the Drouhin wines. Following are reviews of three recently arrived Drouhin wines from the 2006 vintage.

Joseph Drouhin, Corton Charlemagne, Burgundy, 2006: Light bright gold in color, medium- to full-bodied, a delicious Chardonnay-based wine. Opening in the glass to reveal a fine array of lime, pear and tropical fruit flavors and aromas, boasting a buttery, mineral character with light hints of spices. Fine balancing acidity and just the barest hint of oak, making the wine both subtle and elegant. Approachable now, but best 2012-2020. NIS 690. Score 92.

Joseph Drouhin, Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy, 2006: Made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes, light ruby in color, medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. On the nose and palate red berry and cherry fruits, complemented nicely by notes of sweet and spicy cedar wood. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best from 2011-2018. NIS 240. Score 90.

Joseph Drouhin, Savigny les Beaune, Burgundy, 2006: Medium-dark ruby in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins and a bare hint of spicy wood integrated nicely. On the nose and palate cherries, wild berries and an appealing note of red licorice, all lingering nicely on a fresh, juicy finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 140. Score 88.