Since it opened in 1987, Tiberias' Pagoda has been a fun and relaxed place at which to dine. We arrived for a late lunch and even though the air-conditioned interior of this large restaurant is inviting, we opted for seats on the terrace, which is a scant few meters from the water's edge.
The Kinneret is full for the first time in years, and the almost emerald green lawn leading to the water's edge is trimmed perfectly. Nor did it hurt our good spirits to notice as we have in the past that there seems to be a breeze here even on the hottest of days, that the tables are set with spotlessly clean, ironed tablecloths and the waiters, regardless of whether they are sabras or made their way here from the Far East, seem always to have a genuine smile and a good word to say.
There is an ? la carte menu but, as is the case in many similar restaurants, there are also special meals offered for two, three, four or more. We decided on the meal for three, opening with two different soups. The first was a just sweet enough coconut-flavored stock with chicken strips and the second, a Thai-style yam soup, a light tomato-flavored stock and julienned chicken breast and an appealing hot and sweet flavor and plenty of crisply cooked squash, sweet potatoes and green peas. Neither dish was complex but both were quite pleasant, especially since they were served in metal with hot charcoals set in the center to keep them piping hot as we helped ourselves.
We continued with crisp, absolutely greaseless and tasty vegetable egg rolls served with a variety of sauces, the two best of which were a searingly hot and very tasty one of hot green peppers, and another, bright crimson, a thick, sweet and fruit-based sauce
The first of the meat courses we had was a delightfully hot lemon chicken in which slices of chicken breast had been coated with a crispy batter. Served with tissue-thin lemon slices and sprinkled with a well-made hot sauce, the dish was most rewarding. A second offering, crispy slices of goose meat, coated with a very thin tempura-like batter before being deep fried, proved most tasty. The only dish that disappointed somewhat was the Szechuan beef, as it lacked the searing hotness dishes from this part of China should have. Accompanying the meat dishes were bowls of tasty fried rice, a salad of crisp raw red and green peppers, bean sprouts, and cucumbers in a light sauce of vinegar and perhaps rice wine, and a truly delicious offering of noodles with vegetables.
The bill of NIS 300 for three was more than reasonable for though the meal we ordered was said to be appropriate for three, everything was served in such generous portions that there was quite enough food on the table for five or six thoroughly hungry adults. Pagoda is definitely worth visiting for lunch or dinner when visiting the Kinneret and if you are accompanied by children, it's an especially good bet for lunch.
Pagoda: On the Lido Beach, Tiberias. Open Sunday-Thursday 12:00-23:00. Tel. 04-672-5513. Kosher.
Taverna dining
Few places in Tel Aviv offer as pleasant an experience as Neve Tzedek's Susanah, located directly across from the Suzanne Dellal Dance Center. Forget about sitting inside where there seems to be no air-conditioning but sit at the casually set wood tables on the large outdoor terrace under huge, perpetually green, intertwined trees and admire the patio paving of mixed tiles, concrete and wood. Enjoy the breeze and what seems to be the cooler than usual summer air and marvel at feeling transported to a taverna on a Greek island.
We were in the mood for a light meal so my companion and I built our meal entirely around mezes: a tabouleh of lemon-soaked cracked wheat, finely chopped tomatoes, green onions, parsley and mint; a dish of crisply fried green felafels in a thick yogurt; leeks in lemon juice; and lightly fried cauliflower. Nothing original but each dish was fresh and remarkably appealing. No less rewarding were mutton meatballs in an intentionally thin, lemon-rich yogurt sauce and green beans in an herbed tomato sauce. Even the hot bread was appealing and came in quite handy in mopping up the sauces. The grilled eggplant, scraped out of its shell, was topped with not quite salty enough Bulgarian cheese.
At first we thought to skip dessert but were in such a good mood by the end of our meal that we decided to share a hot chocolate souffle, which turned out to be soft, rich and delicious. Even the accompanying vanilla ice cream was tasty.
The service was pleasant and the place physically a delight. I was negatively surprised that only three white wines were being offered and those served in really cheap glasses. We decided on the refreshing Soave classico of Italian producer Masi, which we enjoyed but would have enjoyed more had its price been more in line with the wine's simplicity. Our food bill for two came to a reasonable NIS 129 to which the wine added NIS 95. On my next visit, I will either bring my own wine or settle for more reasonably priced beer.
Susanah, 9 Rehov Shabazi, Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv. Open daily 10:00-01:00 or later. Tel. 03-517-7580.
