We approached Yuval Ben Neriah about a year ago, in the hope of running an interview with the promising young chef for a Haaretz Passover supplement. That was shortly after he left his post as chef of Herbert Samuel, a prestigious restaurant in Tel Aviv, where he worked after stints at other top restaurants: Tel Aviv's Raphael, under chef Shalom Kadosh; Arzack, in San Sebastian, Spain; and Le Bernardin, in New...