Kings of the Castel

Wine and Spirits / Daniel Rogov

The Domaine du Castel has just released four new wines, each worthy of our attention. Starting as a micro-winery, the outfit grew gradually and now produces approximately 100,000 bottles annually.

Since releasing 600 bottles of his first wine in 1992, owner-winemaker Eli Ben Zaken - who now works with his sons Ariel and Eytan - has consistently made some of the very best wines in the country.

The winery, with its exquisitely designed barrel room holding more than 500 barriques (oak barrels with 225 liter capacity ), is located on Moshav Ramat Raziel in the Jerusalem Hills. The winery relies entirely on locally-grown grapes, mostly in its own vineyards, some in vineyards under its full supervision. Grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Chardonnay.

Until the 2009 vintage, the winery produced only three wines annually. The flagship wine, Grand Vin Castel, is a superb Bordeaux-style blend; the fine second label, Petit Castel, is no less exciting and meant for somewhat earlier drinking; and the "C" Blanc du Castel has often been one of the most exciting Chardonnay wines produced in Israel.

With the 2009 vintage the winery presented its Rose du Castel. The Castel wines have all been kosher since 2003.

No one has questioned the consistency of the Castel wines as among the very best in the country. What has been questioned in recent years is the age-worthiness of some of the red wines which cellar well but not for as long as was predicted and hoped for.

Recent advance and re-tastings show that with continued development in both production techniques and bottling facilities, the cellaring potential of more recently released wines may well reflect a dramatic increase in aging potential.

Like many others, I recently received a notification from Domaine du Castel that they have formally released their 2007 Grand Vin. The wine is now making its way to wine shops in Israel and around the world. The wine may also be ordered directly from the winery, which can arrange delivery both in and out of Israel. Prices are as follows for the Castel wines:

Grand Vin, 2007, case of 12 bottles $636; C Blanc du Castel, 2008, case of 12 bottles $432; Petit Castel, 2008, case of 12 bottles $347. The new rose wine is selling for NIS 80 per bottle. Shipping 12 bottles to Europe is $93; and the price of shipping 12 bottles to the United States is $183.

The above prices are ex-cellar, meaning direct from the winery, and apply only to shipments. More than that, if the wine is delivered in Israel, VAT will be added to the price.

Further information on shipping and an order form can be obtained by sending an email to castel@castel.co.il. The 2008 wines are kosher by heter mechira.

Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2007: The now traditional Grand Vin blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, flushed out with Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Full bodied, dark and well extracted, firm on opening but yielding comfortably in the glass to reveal gently caressing tannins, notes of spicy oak and generous black currant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, supported by notes of mocha, orange peel and black olives. On the super-long finish a tempting note of licorice. Long, generous and coherent. Drink now-2015. Score 92. K

Domaine du Castel, Petit Castel, 2008: The best Petit Castel ever. As always, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The wine is aged in French oak for 16 months and in truth, it is a Bordeaux-styled wine that could come only from the Mediterranean sunshine. Deep garnet in color, full-bodied, with soft tannins and bare but tantalizing notes of spicy wood already integrating nicely. A rich blackberry nose followed on the palate by aromas and flavors of black currants, blackberries and black cherries. Pure, round, rich, well focused and with touches of anise and cedar wood on the finish. A complex, deep and long wine. Despite its youth drinking nicely now but best starting only in 2011. Score 93. K

Domaine du Castel, "C" Blanc du Castel, 2008: Shining gold in color, opens with a seductive creamy and vanilla nose, going on to reveal smoky oak notes. A full-bodied Chardonnay that seems to float on the palate and in the glass, it opens to reveal apricot, pear, fig and melon aromas and flavors, supported by finely-tuned acidity and a generous mineral overlay. The longer this sits in the glass the more it shows its depth, complexity and elegance. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. Score 93. K

Rose du Castel, 2009: Castel's first rose and a rousing success. Made by the saignee method (using red grapes and allowing the free-run juice to run off with minimal skin contact ), showing a lively color somewhere between neon orange and mandarin orange. Made entirely from Merlot grapes, medium-bodied and boasting a hefty 14% alcohol content, but don't let that upset you for this is a wine with fine balance between alcohol, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate strawberries, blueberries, cranberries and light hints of Oriental spices and even a gentle dollop of tannins to add to one's pleasure. Wonderfully fruity and complex. Drink now. Score 90. K