Excellence from Spain

Located in northwestern Spain and technically part of the region of Catalonia, Priorato is isolated, dry and has remarkably poor soil - all of which is to the benefit of the wines in the region; for the winemakers of Priorato know that the harder the roots of the vines have to work to find water, the higher quality grapes they will produce.

Until about a decade ago, the wines of Priorato were so heavy and alcoholic; and because they were made under primitive conditions, often became oxidized and undrinkable at a fairly young age. The revolution in winemaking began when winemaker Alvaro Palacios returned to his homeland after gaining experience at Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux, as well as in California. Bringing with him modern winemaking techniques, but maintaining great respect for the past, Palacios and a group of his colleagues have succeeded in turning Priorato into a superstar region of the wine world - often producing wines that are so deep in color that one is tempted to describe them as black, and so deep, rich and well rounded that they are now commanding high prices the world over.

Following are reviews of several of the more recently arrived wines of the region.

Vall Llach, Priorat, 1999: So full bodied, tannic and concentrated is this blend of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that you might think this was a wine to eat and not to drink; but beyond this blend lie delicious plums, wild berries, almost sweet currants and plenty of smokey-toasty vanilla-oak flavors from the wood in which the wine developed. Although approachable now, the wine will be at its best only starting in 2004 or 2005. Look forward to cellaring until 2015-2020. NIS 320. Score: 95.

Vall Llach, Embruix, Priorat, 1999: Call this the baby brother of Vall Llach's first wine (reviewed above) if you will, but this is still a full-bodied and muscular wine on its own. Neither as complex nor as deep as the "more serious" wine, but still with abundant currant, berry and vanilla flavors, this is a wine that falls far from perfection, largely because of tough tannins that do not, at least at this time, show signs of integrating. NIS 130. Score: 88.

Solanes, Cims de Porrera, Classic, 1999: As we have seen over the past years, this Priorato wine has an almost impenetrable purple to inky-black color, as well as a structure that is both concentrated and muscular. This is a full-bodied wine, with tannins that are already integrating nicely, and generous raspberry, blueberry and plum fruits, all complemented nicely by chocolate and coffee, and with flavors that linger on very nicely. The wine should cellar well until 2006-2007. NIS 390. Score: 91.

Solanes, Priorat, 1999: Deep royal purple with orange and golden reflections, this medium-bodied blend of 50 percent Carignano, 30 percent Garnacha and 10 percent each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo spent one year in oak vats. The wine boasts plenty of tannins that promise to smoothen out with time, and tempting plums and other black fruits, along with generous hints of leather and spices. The wine is drinking nicely now, but promises to cellar well until 2005. NIS 125. Score: 90. (*)

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1998: As we have come to expect from the wines of the Priorato region of Spain, this one is almost black in color and, in keeping with the winery's policy, it is a blend of 40 percent Garnacha, 35 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Syrah and 5 percent Mourvedre. Although earthy and almost musky when first opened, this impression quickly yields to generous black fruits, vanilla and herbal flavors and aromas, all of which come together in a full-bodied, well-structured and very well-balanced wine. NIS 350. Score: 93.

Bodegas Onix, Onix 1163, n.v.: In case you're wondering about the name of the wine, 1163 was the first year in which grapes were planted in the Priorato region. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and Carignano, the wine spent about 14 months in oak vats. Ruby to purple in color, with plenty of black and red cherry and wild berry aromas, together with bare hints of anise and mint, this is a wine to drink now or in the next 4-5 years. NIS 149. Score: 89. (*)

Bodegas Onix, L'Arc, 1998: With 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 40 percent Garnacha and 10 percent Carignano, all lightly aged in small oak vats, this deep, medium to full-bodied red wine has tempting aromas and flavors of stewed plums, black cherries and currants, all with gentle overlays of herbs and vanilla. Good balance and full flavors make the wine drinkable now or in the next year or two. NIS 95. Score: 88. (*)