In the depths of the Tel Aviv central bus station, beyond the crowds of Israelis and foreigners making their way to the buses by way of the food joints, tattoo parlors, glitzy or less glitzy shops and the atmosphere of general neglect, is Niko Nitai's welcoming home and castle. It is hard to believe but Nitai, the eternal child of Israeli fringe theater, is 80 years old, and apparently he decided to commemorate...