Wine and Spirits / Whites from the Loire Valley

Those who have until now associated Tel Aviv's Giaconda boutique importer mainly with German wines had best sit back, take a deep breath and start adjusting to the reality that the company is now also importing red, white and rose wines from France. At a recent tasting I sampled quite a few of those wines, several from the Loire Valley, based on Chenin blanc grapes. This small company continues to impress by importing wines that are both individual and excellent.

Giaconda sells to clients via direct contacts, tasting seminars and an Internet service. Those interested can contact the boutique by telephone at (03) 602-2746 or by e-mail, wine@giaconda.co.il. The company's Web site (http://www.giaconda.co.il) allows surfers to see the full list of wines on offer. Members of the winery's club can deduct 10 percent from the prices quoted in the reviews below.

Domaine de Closel, Chateau des Vaults, La Jalousie, Savennieres, Loire, 2006: Light golden color, showing fine Chenin traits and opening on the nose with a nutty, almost yeasty bouquet, to reveal summer fruits, quince and pineapple aromas and flavors, all supported by appealing stony mineral and floral notes. Look as well for a hint of near-sweet brioche that comes in on the finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 130. Score 90.

Chateau de la Guimoniere, Guimoniere, Anjou Blanc, Loire, 2005: Developed sur lie for six months, light gold in color, with a fruit-forward nose. A crispy dry and refreshing Chenin blanc with orange and orange peel, vanilla and spicy notes, along with a light honeyed hint on the fresh and lively finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 100. Score 89.

Chateau de Varennes, Savennieres, Loire, 2004: Fermented partly in stainless steel and then transferred to oak where it spent 12 months on its lees. Medium-bodied but with an almost chewy texture, showing peach, nectarine and bitter almonds on first taste, which yield comfortably to notes of ginger and lightly toasted almonds. Appealing hints of bitterness on the long and sprightly finish. Drinking nicely now-2015, perhaps longer. NIS 135. Score 91.

Domaine des Baumard, Trie Speciale, Savennieres, Loire, 2003: Golden straw in color, with a nose that calls to mind the aroma of sculptor's clay. Medium-bodied, opening to reveal notes of quince and white peaches with a hint of citrus peel and earthy minerals in the background. On the long finish a generous hint of figs that is bound to become more dominant as the wine develops in the bottle. Nice now but will be at its best only from 2010 to 2017. NIS 210. Score 93.

Domaine Bourillon d'Orleans, La Bourdonnerie, Vouvrey Demi-Sec, Loire, 2003: Made from intentionally late-harvested grapes, with wild yeasts and no exposure to oak. A medium- to full-bodied Chenin blanc with marked but moderate sweetness balanced nicely by acidity and fruits. Opens slowly on the nose and palate, but when it does, it is lovely, showing white peaches, ripe Anjou pears, and honeyed citrus peel, all on a background of heather and freshly mowed grass. Drink now-2011. NIS 130. Score 89

Domaine des Baumard, Carte d'Or, Coteaux du Layon, Loire, 2005: Light gold color, with figs, green almonds and generous sweetness that is offset nicely by refreshing acidity. At first sip reminiscent of Riesling until one realizes that the taste is not one of petrol but licorice and minerals. Concentration builds toward a long and generous finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2016, perhaps longer. NIS 130. Score 92.

Chateau de Belle Rive, Quintessence, Quarts de Chaume, Loire, 2003: Sauternes and Barsac have their honey and Tokaji has its molasses, but the wines of Quarts de Chaume, like this splendid example, are unique because of their distinct date, sugared nuts and maple syrup notes. Golden toward bronze, almost apricot in color, opening with hints of licorice and saltwater as well as maple syrup and date notes. With almost intense sweetness, balanced nicely and set into proportion by a fine acidity. Develops in the glass to show candied citrus peel, browned butter, minerals and, coming in on the finish, a note of ginger. Remarkably long and complex, deserves to be served entirely on its own. If you do insist on serving it with a dessert, only a light baba will do. Drink now-2020. NIS 285. Score 94.