Wine and Spirits / The women behind the bubbly

Most like to credit Dom Perignon with discovering how to make Champagne, but a great many forget that the wines made during the time of that Benedictine monk (who died in 1715) were watery, acidic, cloudy and - if truth be told - not very good.

The fact is Champagne's delicious flavor and romantic image were largely developed thanks to a collection of widows.

In 1805 Champagne began to take on the unique image that it possesses today, and this was largely due to Nicole Barbe Ponsardin who, when her husband Francois Clicquot died, took over the Champagne house which today bears her name - now known as Veuve Clicquot (the widow Cliquot).

About 50 years later another widow, Jeanne-Alexandrine Louise Pommery, led another revolution by making Champagne in its dry brut form.

The tradition of widows revolutionizing major Champagne houses continued with Madame Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt of Laurent-Perrier Champagne and Madame Jacques Bollinger taking charge of the houses that bear their husbands' names.

Today another such example can be seen in Carol Duval-Leroy, who now serves as president of Champagne Duval-Leroy. Of course, women need not only be widows to have an influence on the industry.

Four wines from the Pommery Champagne House, including three kosher editions, have recently arrived in Israel, imported by the Scottish Company.

Pommery, Brut Champagne, 2000 (Kosher Edition): Medium- to full-bodied, a mineral-rich Champagne with the barest hint of yeast, opening to reveal red and black berries, citrus and citrus peel - those showing at one moment flinty minerals and the next a light earthiness. Well-focused, with sharp bubbles that go on and on, leading to a long and elegant finish. Drink now-2016. NIS 358. Score 92. K

Pommery, Brut Royale, Champagne, n.v. (Kosher Edition): Light gold in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing tantalizing hints of toasted bread and hazelnuts, highlighting distinct notes of berries and black cherries. Fine acidity, a long mousse, sharp bubbles and a lovely mineral-rich finish. NIS 290. Score 90. K.

Pommery, Brut Rose Champagne, n.v.(Kosher Edition): Pink towards salmon colored, medium- to full-bodied, with a long mousse and sharp, well-focused bubbles. On the nose and palate a delightful array of cherry wild berry, currant and cherry fruits, complemented nicely by notes of cloves, cinnamon and espresso coffee. A wine that floats on the palate and then lingers very nicely. NIS 349. Score 92. K

Pommery, Pop, n.v.: A somewhat unconventional Champagne, Pommery's idea of "fun" - offered in 200-milliliter bright blue bottles that come with a straw, so one can drink it without even using a glass. A traditional Champagne blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, somewhat less bubbly and less yeasty than more traditional blends, but packed with orange, lemon, apple and peach flavors. Not particularly complex, but fresh and refreshing. One piece of advice: drink from the bottle if you must, but not through the straw - unless you want to get very drunk very quickly. NIS 98 for four 200-ml. bottles. Score 87.

Jean Louis Chave, St. Joseph, Offerus, Rhone, 2006: Dark ruby towards garnet with orange reflections, medium-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins settling in nicely. On first attack, generous cedar wood and garrigue, parting to reveal a flavor and aroma profile of black cherries, wild berries and sweet spices. On the long finish appealing notes of earthy minerals and red licorice. Drink now-2013. NIS 140. Score 92.

Domaine Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre, Les Baronnes, Loire, 2008: Opens with what wine critic Jancis Robinson likes to call the aroma of "cat's pee on a gooseberry bush" - which is actually a compliment, not an insult - those aromas fading nicely to show aromas and flavors of grapefruit, citrus peel and herbal notes, all on a rich stony mineral background. As Chablis might make the ideal accompaniment to oysters, this one goes beautifully with cooked lobster, crab and fish dishes. Drink now-2011. NIS 120. Score 90.

Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils, Savigny Les Beaunes 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2005: Dark cherry red, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and good balancing acidity. On the nose and palate an appealing array of cherries, raspberries and cranberries, those supported nicely by light earthy overtones. Drink now-2012. NIS 179. Score 89.

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis, 2007: Traditional Chablis, golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with appealing apple, citrus, greengage plum and generous flinty minerals as well as fine balancing acidity to keep it lively throughout. At its best with oysters and cold seafood dishes. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 120. Score 88.

Le Mourre de l'Isle, Domaine de la Clastre, Cotes du Rhone, David, 2007: An uncomplicated but charming Cotes du Rhone, precisely what one hopes to receive when dining at a local French bistro or cafe. A dark royal purple, medium-bodied blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre. Showing ripe wild berry, black cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors, with overlays of espresso coffee and bittersweet chocolate. Spicy and lively. Drink now-2011. NIS 75. Score 87. K

Masi, Amarone Classico, Campolongo di Torbe, Veneto, 2001: Every bit as tempting as the exquisite 1997 release. Full-bodied, opening with a nose rich with black cherries, raisins and spices, going on to open in the glass - first showing currants and raspberries, then blossoming forth with figs and later ripe red plums, and finally going into the super-long finish hints of bittersweet chocolate. A rich, almost heady wine that manages to be simultaneously muscular and elegant. Approachable and fully enjoyable now, but best 2012-2035, perhaps longer. NIS 690. Score 95.

Gaja, Ca'Marcanda, Magari, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2005: A Tuscan blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, showing full-bodied, with silky smooth tannins integrating nicely as well as balance and structure that bode well for the future. On first attack spicy blackcurrants and blackberries, parting to reveal notes of raspberries and earthy minerals and, on the super-long finish, a tantalizing hint of violets. Give this one some time and it will reveal tobacco and Oriental spices. Approachable now, but best 2011-2018. NIS 249. Score 93.

Gaja, Ca'Marcanda, Magari, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2006: Almost as delicious as the 2005 selection. Super-dark garnet in color, full-bodied with tannins still needing time to settle in, but already showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate a generous array of currant, raspberry and cherry fruits, complemented nicely by notes of cigar tobacco and flower-scented espresso coffee. Long and elegant. Best 2011-2018. NIS 249. Score 92.

Ruffino, Chianti Classico Riserva, Ducale Oro, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal purple, with soft tannins and a gentle note of spicy cedar wood, opening to show plum, blackberry and cassis fruits, supported nicely by notes of dark chocolate and, on the long finish, a hint of cigar tobacco. Approachable now, but best 2010-2014. NIS 200. Score 91.