Wine and Spirits / The Judean Hills are alive

Founded in 2001 by Ben-Ami Bravdo and Oded Shosheyov, both professors of oenology at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the Karmei Yosef winery sits in the heart of a vineyard on the western slopes of the Judean Hills. This small winery released 2,800 bottles of its first wine in 2001 and has doubled its production every year since then. Current production is 18,000-20,000 bottles annually, and the winery hopes to be producing about 25,000 bottles annually by 2010.

Among the varieties under cultivation in the winery's vineyards are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Carignan, French Colombard, Emerald Riesling and Muscat of Alexandria grapes. From 2001 to 2003, releases included red wines only, and the winery's first Chardonnay was from the 2004 vintage.

"K" indicates the wine is kosher

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood, blackcurrant, wild berry and blackcherry. Soft, round and long. Best 2008-2012. NIS 120. Score 91.

Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2005: Developed partly in stainless steel, partly sur lie in French and American barriques. Light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, crisply dry, with lively acidity well balanced by citrus, citrus peel, pineapple and melon fruits and a gentle overlay of spicy oak. Long and elegant. Drink now-2008. NIS 85. Score 91.

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2004: Developed in French and American barriques for 12 months, with 10 percent of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, this medium-bodied red shows appealing smoky oak and moderately firm tannins impeccably balanced with cassis, blueberry and blackcherry all picking up hints of anise, sweet cedar, sage and tobacco. A long, rich intricate finish that resonates with vanilla and fruit. Drink now-2010. NIS 120. Score 90.

From A Variety of Wineries

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 2002: Full-bodied, with firm tannins and generous smoky oak, coming together nicely with blackcurrant, blackberry and light hints of herbs and espresso. Generous and mouthfilling but with a hint of bitterness on the finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 159. Score 89.

Segal, Merlot, Recasim, Dovev, 2002: Reflecting its 19 months in barriques, showing generous oak but balanced by mouth-coating tannins, the rough edges come together in surprisingly soft and round ways. On the nose and palate appealing berry, blackcherry and cassis fruits, all on a nicely spicy background. Drink now-2008. NIS 79. Score 88. K

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Recasim, Dovev, 2002: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, aged for 20 months in primarily French oak barriques this medium-bodied, soft and round wine offers up enticing aromas of currants, mocha and minerals, those backed up by chewy but nicely yielding tannins. One of the few wines I would recommending decanting at this stage. Best now-2008. NIS 85. Score 90. K

Efrat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teperberg Reserve, 2003: Dark garnet in color, with its once firm tannins now integrating nicely to show tempting berry, blackcherry and currant fruits, those matched by hints of spices, leather and earthiness and, on the generous finish an appealing overlay of chocolate. Best 2007-2010. NIS 95. Score 88. K

Efrat, Chardonnay, Teperberg Reserve, 2004: Fermented and developed sur lie for six months in new French oak barriques, this golden yellow, medium-bodied white shows appealing citrus, peach and pear fruits on an an appealing mineral-rich background. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 88. K

Efrat, Chenin Blanc, Teperberg Reserve, 2004: Golden straw in color, medium-bodied, reflecting light oak treatment in French and American oak barriques with a light creamy overlay on generous peaches, pears, melons and spring flowers, complemented by a hint of citrus peel on the finish. Drink now. Score 87. NIS 55. Score 87. K

Efrat, Meritage, Teperberg Selection, 2005: A medium- to full-bodied lightly oaked blend of 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 percent Merlot and 5 percent Cabernet Franc. Firm and with gritty tannins that give the wine a somewhat coarse texture. There are cedar, tobacco, currant and sage aromas and flavors here but those never fully unfold. Perhaps better with some additional bottle maturation. Best 2007-2010. NIS 52. Score 85. K