Wine and Spirits / The heights of good winemaking

With a fully modern winery located on Moshav Eliad on the Golan Heights, Chateau Golan released their first wines from the 2000 vintage under the hand of Oregon and California-trained winemaker Uri Hetz.

Vineyards owned by the winery, including several organic ones, currently yield Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc, Mourvedre, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier grapes.

Production is currently between 70,000-75,000 bottles a year and future production is estimated at somewhat over 100,000 bottles annually. The winery releases wines in one series, Royal Reserve, and a blended wine known as Eliad.

Following are reviews of recently released wines, those showing that Chateau Golan comfortably maintains its place as one of the very best wineries in the country.

Chateau Golan, Syrah, Royal Reserve, 2007: Youthful royal purple in color, a blend of 95 percent Syrah and 5 percent Mourvedre, oak-aged in French oak for 12 months. The wine is full-bodied, with its generous 14.6 percent alcohol level in fine balance with spicy wood, acidity and fruits. On first attack near-sweet plums and crushed berries, yielding comfortably to blueberries and what seems at one moment notes of saddle leather, the next of espresso coffee. A wine that is simultaneously complex and elegant, and at the same time surprisingly easy to drink. Drink now-2014. NIS 155. Score 91.

Chateau Golan, Geshem Rouge, Royal Reserve, 2007: At 15 percent, plenty of alcohol here, but it shows neither heat nor sweetness as it is in fine balance with spicy wood, near-sweet tannins and fruits. Full-bodied, rich and deep, showing almost incense-like anise notes and then opening to reveal berry, black cherry and currant fruits. A blend of 70 percent Grenache with 15 percent each of Mourvedre and Syrah, oak-aged for 13 months, with a tempting liquoreux finish. Drink now-2015. NIS 259. Score 91.

Chateau Golan, Geshem Blanc, Royal Reserve, 2008: Light golden straw in color, a medium-bodied and nicely aromatic blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne (57 percent, 37 percent and 6 percent respectively). A distinctly Mediterranean blend (you can almost feel the sunshine here), opening with an appealing floral nose and then going on to show apple, nectarine and quince, all supported by fine balancing acidity. A tantalizing hint of spiciness on the long finish. Drink now-2012. NIS 155. Score 91.

Chateau Golan, Sauvignon Blanc, Royal Reserve, 2008: Light and lively gold in color, with green and orange tints, developed partly in oak and partly in stainless steel, a wine that is simultaneously lively and refreshing as well as complex and thought provoking. Gently floral, with traditional Sauvignon Blanc aromas and flavors, including freshly cut grass, gooseberries and tropical fruits, all on a background of well-balanced acidity. Long and generous. Drink now-2011, perhaps longer. NIS 130. Score 91.

Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2007: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, a full-bodied blend of 86 percent Merlot, 9 percent Petite Verdot and 5 percent Syrah. Oak-aged for 14 months in French oak, deeply extracted, muscular and intense. A whopping 15 percent alcohol here but it is in fine balance with generous soft tannins and notes of near-sweet cedarwood. On the nose and palate blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruits, on a background of licorice and bittersweet chocolate. Tannins and a note of toasty oak rise on the long finish. A powerhouse, but one with grace. Drink now-2014. NIS 145. Score 90.

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2007: A medium to full-bodied blend of 85 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 7 percent each Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and a 1 percent smidgen (I always wanted to use that word in a tasting note) of Petite Sirah. The wine is vinified separately for 12 months in American and French oak before blending and is dark garnet, with gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of spicy oak and cedar. Opens to show appealing aromas and flavors of blackberries, black currants and violets, and on the generous finish, a hint of bittersweet chocolate. Drink now-2014. NIS 137. Score 90.

Chateau Golan, Eliad, 2007: A blend of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 7 percent Petit Verdot and 3 percent Merlot. Almost inky dark in color, a distinctly Old World wine in its elegance. The grapes were vinified separately for 13 months in oak before being blended and aged for three months longer. On first attack blackberries and black cherries yielding comfortably to notes of toasty oak and bittersweet chocolate. On the long finish, as we have come to know with this wine, hints of olives and Mediterranean herbs. Plenty of alcohol here (14 percent) but not at all a "blockbuster" and given time this one will indeed show elegance. Best 2011-2016, perhaps longer. NIS 179. Score 90.

Chateau Golan, Rose, Royal Reserve, 2008: Pale toward blushing pink in color, made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, partly developed in stainless steel and for a short while in used barriques. Medium-bodied, with appealing red and black berries, strawberries and red currants on a spicy background. Plenty of good acidity here. A more than usually complex rose. Drink now. NIS 99. Score 89.