Wine and Spirits / Sweet, and new to Israel

Many of us know the remarkably rich and long-lived dessert wines of Sauternes, Barsac and Tokaji that have been available for years in better wine shops. Newly imported and of great interest are the equally excellent sweet wines of the Coteaux du Layon. Located on the steep slopes of the right bank of the Layon River in the Anjou district of France's Loire Valley, the vineyards of the Coteau du Layon are planted entirely in Chenin Blanc grapes.

With unique soil conditions of clay, limestone and schist and a prevailing southerly wind, the grapes are often attacked by botrytis cinerea, the noble-rot that dries the grapes on the vines, concentrating their sugar and producing wines of an intense sweetness set off by the natural acidity of the Chenin Blanc grapes to yield wines of great intensity and with the ability to cellar for many years.

Produced in minuscule quantities (the total yield of the area is often under 10,000 cases annually), these wines are not inexpensive. At their best, however, they are well worth the investment.

They are now imported by Giaconda, which is also now bringing wines from the Rhone Valley and Alsace. (03) 602-2746, http://www.giaconda.co.il/

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Coteaux du Layon, Loire, 2006: Made entirely from Chenin Blanc grapes, showing generous Botrytis spiciness and funkiness that make way for tropical fruits, figs, mineral and candied citrus peel, all coming together seamlessly with generous sweetness in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Fine competition for the best of Sauternes! Drink now-2035. NIS 340. Score 96.

Domaine de Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Coteaux du Layon, Loire, 2003: Fine honeyed sweetness and generous spiciness in fine balance with summer fruits, sugared orange and lemon peel, all with an exquisite overlay of wildflowers and cherry blossoms. Exquisite. Drink now-2030, perhaps longer. NIS 375. Score 95.

Domaine des Baumard, Coteaux du Layon, Clos de Ste. Catherine, Loire, 2006: What might be called a double "oh wow" wine, the first exclamation coming with a nose resplendent with figs and apple butter, the second as the flavors, of quince, mangoes and green almonds, sneak up on the palate. Concentrated and intense while simultaneously rich, complex and elegant. Drink now-2025. NIS 245. Score 95.

Domaine des Baumard, Coteaux du Layon, Carte d'Or, Loire, 2005: A generously sweet, late-harvest dessert wine with fine balancing acidity and showing honeyed orange, pear and quince fruits backed up by notes of heather and spring flowers and spices. Long and mouth-filling. Drink now-2015, perhaps longer. NIS 130. Score 92.

Domaine des Baumard, Savennieres, Clos de Papillon, Loire, 2005: Medium-bodied but mouth-filling, showing appealing quince and lime fruits that typify the region, those supported nicely by generous minerality. On the long finish hints of cantaloupe. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2014. NIS 190. Score 92.

From the Rhone and Alsace

Domaine le Couroulu, Vacqueyras Rouge, Cuvee Classique, Rhone, 2005: Medium-to-full-bodied, opening with notes of lead pencils and tar, those going on to reveal generous red and black berries on a background of licorice and orange peel. Drink now-2010. NIS 117. Score 90.

Domaine le Couroulu, Cotes de Rhone Rouge, Rhone, 2006: Ruby toward royal purple, with soft tannins and generous earthy minerals on first attack, leading to appealing plum and blackberry fruits. On the long finish tannins rise with a note of near-sweet cedarwood. Drink now-2010. NIS 76. Score 89.

Chateau d'Aqueria, Lirac Blanc, Rhone, 2007: Light golden straw with green tints, medium-bodied, a distinctive wine showing notes of white peaches, yeasty brioche and minerals. Fine with cooked oysters or poached fish. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 88.

Chateau d'Acqueria, Lirac Rouge, Rhone, 2005: A traditional Lirac blend of Grenache, Clairette, Cinsault, Bourboulenc and Mourvedre. Ruby toward garnet, with generous cherry, berry and currant fruits on a lightly spicy background. Round and generous. Drink now. NIS 100. Score 87.

Albert Mann, Riesling, Grand Cru, Schlossberg, Alsace, 2007: A fuller-bodied than usual Alsace Riesling, at this stage showing mostly a floral nose and apple and peach notes, those almost closed down because of the wine's heaviness. No fear though, for all is here in fine balance and all that is needed is time in the bottle for the elements to come together. As it does so, look for a mineral-rich white with generous ripe peach, green apple and green melon notes, with generous granite-like minerals in the background. Destined for elegance. Best 2011-2020. NIS 210. Score 95.

Albert Mann, Gewurztraminer, Vieilles Vignes, Grand Cru, Furtenum, Alsace, 2007: I cannot swear that these late-harvested grapes were affected by botrytis, but it surely does taste that way, with generous exotic spices opening to reveal honeyed lychee and citrus fruits. Full-bodied, probably best categorized as off-dry but showing fine length, liveliness and complexity. Drink now-2018. NIS 225. Score 92.

Albert Mann, Gewurztraminer, Tradition, Alsace, 2007: As typical as you will get for an Alsatian Gewurztraminer, showing lychee, rose petals, white pepper and a hint of cardamom. Refreshing, with just the right note of complexity to add interest. Drink now-2011. NIS 115. Score 88.