Wine and Spirits / Stars from the Rhone Valley

I recently attended a tasting of wines from Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Vacqueyras, two of the better known villages in France's Southern Rhone Valley. For those who don't follow wine history, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (literally "the pope's new castle") achieved its first moment of glory when the papal court relocated from Rome to Avignon in the early 14th century. Only a few walls of the original castle remain as evidence of the various popes who resided there, with the area now known for the wines carrying the village's name.

According to regulations, the Chateauneuf-du-Pape's red wines can contain as few as one or as many as 13 different varieties of grape, including red and white grapes. Although the primary grape used is Grenache (indeed some producers produce their wines entirely from this grape), other red grapes used include Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvedre, Muscardin, Syrah, Terret Noir and Vaccarese. Their white grapes include Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardin, Roussanne and Picpoul. At their best, the red and white wines of Chateauneuf are full-bodied, complex and quite cellar-worthy.

The wines of Vacqueyras, technically a village in Cotes du Rhone, are a bit more country-style than those of Chateauneuf, but at their best that does not stop them from attaining excellence and complexity.

Giaconda, a boutique operation which pleasantly focuses on both quality and price (well in-line with costs found in the United States and Europe), is the local importer of these wines. Prices provided below are for club members; membership is free and can be processed on the company's Web site www.giaconda.co.il. For further information or to place orders via telephone, call (03) 602-2746.

Domaine Bois de Boursan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Rhone, 2006: Light, bright gold in color, a medium-bodied white, opening in the glass to reveal a generous nose of mango, lime and almonds, then melon, papaya and fig flavors. On the long finish generous hints of minerals and peach pits, all coming together as a coherent and sophisticated whole. Drink now-2014. NIS 162. Score 91.

Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, Un Sang Blanc, Vacqueyras, Rhone, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Roussanne (and, if I'm not mistaken, a hint of Viognier floating in there). A near creamy (I am tempted to say buttery) wine, with fine balancing acidity, opening in the glass to reveal on first attack melon and apples, yielding nicely to notes of tropical fruit and peach pits. Rising on the long finish to reveal hints of mint and lemon. At one moment delicate, at the next muscular, but at every moment fascinating. Drink now-2012. NIS 225. Score 91.

Domaine Bois de Boursan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Felix, Rhone, 2001: Full-bodied and concentrated enough that you might think of this one as "thick." Dark ruby towards garnet in color, with generous tannins that grip comfortably and part to make way for traditional Chateauneuf aromas and flavors. On the nose and palate raspberries, cherries and wild berries, complemented by garrigue, freshly roasted herbs, earthy minerals and notes of roasted game meat. Complex and generous with a remarkably long finish. Chateauneuf at its traditional best. Drinking nicely now, but don't hesitate to hold this one until 2013 before drinking or cellaring without fear until 2030. NIS 360. Score 96.

Domaine Bois de Boursan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Felix, Rhone, 2005: Concentrated and intense, reflecting its youth by being tight and needing quite a while to open in the glass. Not to worry though, as this one shows truly fine balance and structure that bodes well for the future. As the wine does open, look for a full-bodied wine with generous but soft tannins highlighting wild berries, black currants and figs, on a background of earthy minerals, cherries and licorice. Remarkably long. Approachable now, but best from 2013-2028. NIS 337. Score 94.

Domaine Bois de Boursan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, 2001: Garnet with a hint of burnt Sienna, but don't let that confuse you - this wine is not at all browning with age; it's simply reflecting a natural evolution from what was once its almost dark brown color. Coming into its own now, a traditional (one might even say old-fashioned) Chateauneuf, full-bodied and entrancing with generous notes of game, mushroom and saddle-leather, those parting comfortably to make way for purple plum, blackberry and herbal notes, all leading to a long near-sweet finish. Generous and complex. Drink now-2018, perhaps longer. NIS 225. Score 93.

Domaine Bois de Boursan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, 2005: A thoroughly traditional Chateauneuf, bright garnet in color, full-bodied, with earthy minerals, garrigue and leathery notes underlying a generous array of black fruits. From mid-palate on notes of grilled beef and spices; on the long finish licorice and roasted herbs. Mouth-filling and generous. Drinking nicely now, but best from 2012-2024. NIS 198. Score 92.

Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, Cuvee de Lopy, Vacqueyras, Rhone, 2005: Deep royal purple in color, a blend of primarily Grenache and Syrah, flushed out with small percentages of Mourvedre and Cinsault. On the nose jammy berries, Oriental spices and freshly ground coffee and on the palate intense blackberry and red currant fruits, supported by notes of minerals and spices. Firm from first sip to last, merely reflecting the youth of the wine. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best 2012-2017. NIS 225. Score 91.