Wine and Spirits / Power grapes: The best of the year

Even though Europeans and quite a few Israelis have come to know the night of December 31 as Sylvester's Eve, this appellation is relatively new, having its roots in 18th century France. One group claims that Sylvester was the Roman Catholic pope who miraculously brought a dead bull back to life. Another theory, one particularly popular in Italy, is that Sylvester was a monk who lived near Florence and was famous primarily for the number of women he seduced. And, if a Jewish connection is required, some claim, probably in humor, that Sylvester was a Jewish greengrocer who lived in London and became famous because he made the best pickled herring in the city. The truth of the matter is that nobody has the faintest idea which Sylvester we are celebrating.

Whatever, the end of the year is a fine time for a wine critic to look back and devise a list of what he considers the best wines released to the market in 2009. Following are reviews of 10 of the very best that made their way to market, as well as two wines that will be released in the near future that are definitely worth waiting for.

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve 2005: Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, this wine is both concentrated and elegant. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc, opening with spicy, mocha-tinged blackcurrants, those yielding to blackberries, herbs and light oak. Hints of light sea salt and leather on the super-long finish make the wine intriguing. Perhaps the best yet from the winery. Drink now-2015. NIS 110. Score 94.

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2007: Intense and concentrated, so firmly tannic at this stage that you might think it searing. No fear, however, for those tannins are in fine balance with wood and fruit, the wine shows an enviable structure and all that is required for this one to show its glory is time. Destined to always be muscular, those muscles with an elegant and not at all showy note, as the wine develops look for currant, black cherry and blackberry fruits, those with hints of black pepper, nutmeg and licorice, all leading to a long, generous finish. Best 2012-2020. NIS 320. Score 94.

Yatir, Yatir Forest, 2006: Deep garnet in color, with orange and purple reflections, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot ?(50%, 38% and 12% respectively?), oak-aged for 16 months in French oak. Ripe, round and generous, with caressing tannins and a gentle spicy wood influence, opens to reveal layer after layer of currant, plum, blackberry, mocha, and floral notes, all of which linger on a superbly long and mouth-filling finish. A wine that boasts intensity together with grace and elegance. One of Israel?s very best. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable now, but this is one for aging and will be at its best from 2011-2020, perhaps longer. NIS 230. Score 94. K

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2004: Perhaps the best Syrah ever in Israel. Extraordinarily deep ruby, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy raspberries and kirsch liqueur, those yielding to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Enjoyable now but best 2011-2018. NIS 170. Score 94. K

Clos de Gat, Merlot, Sycra, 2006: Full-bodied, reflecting its 20 months in new oak with generous spicy wood and equally generous but softly mouth-coating tannins, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Opens with currant, purple plum and mocha notes, those yielding to blackberry, citrus peel and light herbal and tobacco overtones. Drink now-2016. NIS 250. Score 93.

Galil Mountain, Yiron, 2005: A Bordeaux blend with a hint of Syrah added − that is to say, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, plus 4% Syrah. Full-bodied and concentrated but simultaneously soft and elegant, with generous cassis and black fruits, with velvety tannins and reflecting its 16 months in oak with gently spicy and dusty wood, all of which lead to a super-long finish. Perhaps the best to date from the winery. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best 2011-2016. NIS 100. Score 93. K

Pelter, T-Selection, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2006: With 20 months in new French barriques, a generously oaked wine, near-sweet because of its 15% alcohol content. Dark garnet in color, with generous velvety tannins that match the oak. Opens in the glass to reveal blackcurrants and black cherries, those along with tarry and spicy notes, and, rising on the very long finish, notes of sweet chewing tobacco. A California-style blockbuster but yielding in the glass to show its own kind of muscular elegance. Drink now-2015. NIS 150. Score 93.

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Deep royal-purple, full-bodied with firm, still rough-edged tannins, those integrating nicely with light spicy wood and fruits to show fine balance and structure. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, this is a big, rich and bold wine, with concentrated layers of currant, blackberry, anise and cedary oak flavors. Drink now-2013. NIS 165. Score 93. K

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2006: A blend focused on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, those flushed out with Petit Verdot and Malbec. Firm, solid and intense, dark garnet in color, full-bodied and firm on first attack but then opening to show a generous array of blackberries, black cherries, currants and dark chocolate. Dense, rich and complex, with hints of near-sweetness that toy comfortably on the palate, with tannins that grip comfortably and in fine balance with wood and fruits. Long and generous, muscular and intense but with a distinct note of elegance. Drink now-2014. NIS 230. Score 92. K

Carmel, Limited Edition, 2005: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc ?(65%, 17%, 15% and 3% respectively?). Deep garnet in color, medium to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and reflecting its 15 months in barriques with light toasty and spicy oak. Blackberry, black cherry and purple plums fruits on first attack yield to black currants and appealing hints of lead pencil and vanilla and, on the long, mouth-filling finish, a near-sweet and elegant tobacco note. Round and elegant. Drink now-2013. NIS 230. Score 92. KAnd one worth waiting for:

Dalton Matatia, 2006: A Bordeaux blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Developed in new French oak, very deep and dark in color. On first attack aromas of mint, tar and a hint of iodine, those remarkably and perhaps surprisingly pleasing. Yields in the glass to reveal generous blackberry, blackcurrant and bitter orange peel notes, and finally, on the long finish, hints of espresso coffee. With fine balance between wood, acidity, tannins and fruits, a thought-provoking and delicious wine. Produced in a limited edition of 6,000 bottles and will come to market in about two months. If I had to find a single word to describe the wine, that word would be ?scrumptious.? Score 93. K