Wine and Spirits / Individual, idiosyncratic and complex

Listen to Reinhard Lowenstein talk for a few minutes, and you might think he was another new age guru. When Lowenstein talks about wine, the discussion flips from Mozart to chaos theory to the sounds of air and water, and only marginally touches on the winemaking process. Lowenstein is so opposed to interfering with the natural fermentation process of wild yeasts and grapes that he boldly states that once the wines have been placed in barrels or stainless steel tanks, there is nothing left to be done.

Far from being a flaky guru, however, Lowenstein is a wise and charming advocate of making wine with the fullest respect for terroir, soil type and minimal intervention. Lowenstein founded Weingut Heymann-Lowenstein in 1980, and his wines are now considered among the most fascinating of the German region on the steepest banks of the Mosel River. Producing a mere 120,000 bottles annually, Heymann-Lowenstein has become one of the cult wineries of Germany. The wines reflect not only the various slate and mineral characteristics of the vineyards, but the 10-20 percent of botrytis-affected grapes used even in the driest of his wines. In sum, the Heymann-Lowenstein wines could be characterized as individual, idiosyncratic and complex.

Several of the coveted Heymann-Lowenstein wines have now arrived in Israel. The wines of the good 2004 vintage are loaded with minerals, show just a bit of fat and remind one more of Burgundy than Germany; those of the superb 2005 vintage are finer, more complex, lighter and more distinctly German. To place orders for the 2004 or 2005 wines contact the importer, Giaconda, at (03)6022746 or via their Web site at www.giaconda.co.il.

Heymann Lowenstein, Erste Lage Uhlen-R, Auslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Lots of botrytis here, along with hints of spring flowers, molasses, honeyed summer fruits and citrus peel. It is almost overpowering at this youthful stage, so sample it nearing its best in 2012. If you're truly adventurous, try it at its peak in 2020. NIS 600. Score 94.

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Erste Lage Uhlen-L, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Medium-gold in color, opening with distinctly petrol and smoky aromas and then showing generous minerals over ripe peaches, apricots and just the vaguest hint of botrytis that enchants, as well as a hint of eucalyptus honey. Drink now-2018, perhaps longer. NIS 250. Score 94.

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Erste Lage Uhlen-B, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Medium-bodied, light gold, opening with smoke and cardamom, which turn to apricots, and then open to reveal hints of salt water and fried bacon. Ultimately reveal minerals and generous fruits, all of which linger, coming together as a thoroughly coherent whole. Drink now-2020. NIS 230. Score 93.

Heymann, Lowenstein, Riesling, Erste Lage Uhlen-R, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Light bronze in color, full-bodied, with gentle hints of botrytis highlighting peach, citrus, citrus peel and melon fruits, which yield comfortably to racy minerals and acidity. Full-bodied and intense enough to stand up to veal and even small game birds, but also exquisite when simply sipped on its own. Fascinates and charms. Drink now-2015, perhaps longer. NIS 250. Score 93.

Heymann Lowenstein, Schieferterrassen, Auslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Light gold in color, with generous sweetness balanced nicely by fresh acidity. Crisp flinty minerals with gun metal and even a hint of aluminum, which along with notes of sea water come together nicely with super-ripe summer fruits. Drink now if you enjoy what some call "stickies," but if you want to see it at its best, hold off until 2015 or later when the sweetness starts to level off and the wine becomes deeper and more intense. This one will cellar comfortably until 2030. NIS 195. Score 93.

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling Erste Lage, Kirchberg, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Dark golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with crisp minerality on the nose and palate, showing a tempting range of summer fruits, citrus peel and spices. On the super-long finish, the minerals pick up tantalizing overtones of Oriental spices, fennel and sea spray. Drink now-2018. NIS 195. Score 92.

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Erste Lage Rottgen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Deeply aromatic, with a moderate level of sweetness balanced beautifully by acidity and showing ripe melon, lime and flinty minerals, all of which fill the mouth beautifully and then linger in a remarkably long finish. Best as an aperitif. Drink now-2014. NIS 210. Score 92.

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Schieferterrassen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005: Moderately dark golden in color, on the nose showing bare and tantalizing hints of oil and spring flowers, opening to reveal a complex array of summer fruits grapefruit, Oriental spices and sweet peppers. Excellent balance between natural acidity, fruits and minerals. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 135. Score 91.

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Schieferterrassen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2004: Light gold in color, with a hint of funky but not honeyed botrytis that shows from the moment this dry wine is poured and then opens to show generous peach, citrus and pineapple fruits against a complex mineral and floral background. Medium-bodied but remarkably concentrated and well-balanced. Drink now-2011. NIS 130. Score 89.