Wine and Spirits / German wines from two small importers

As boutique wineries seem to be thriving in the country these days, so are boutique importers, that is to say importers bringing relatively small quantities of wines, those available not so much at wine stores but primarily by direct order through the importers themselves. As is the case with small wineries in which one should be able to identify the signature of the winemaker on their wines, the same is true of small importers.

The German wines of Giaconda, for example, demonstrate certain commonalities. All are rich wines that offer a fine balance and pleasing roundness on the palate and in many cases hints of spices and minerals to complement the fruits. In short, wines well worth experiencing.

Orders can be made and information obtained by phoning Giaconda at (03) 602-2746 or via the Web site: www.giaconda.co.il.

H. Donnhoff, Weissburgunder, QBA Trocken, Nahe, 2004: Medium-bodied, light gold in color, with ripe pineapple, guava, citrus and citrus peel backed up by somewhat spicy and vanilla-laced oak (the wine spent six months in German wood casks). Long and generous with hints of hazelnuts on the finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 139. Score 89.

H. Donnhoff, Riesling, QBA Trocken, Nahe, 2004: Light gold, light- to medium-bodied, a rich wine, with appealing notes of peaches, white pepper and minerals, which are matched by hints of lime and grapefruit. With vibrant acidity and minerals, a crisply refreshing and just complex enough wine. Drink now-2008. Score 89. NIS 109.

Koehler-Ruprecht, Riesling, Kabinett, Trocken, Kallstadter Saumagen, Pfalz, 2004: Firm and well-balanced, tight at first but opening beautifully in the glass to reveal an appealing array of grapefruit and peach fruits, which are supported nicely by earthy and chalky minerals. Finishes with a burst of refreshing acidity. Drink now-2010. NIS 130. Score 90.

Leitz, Riesling, QBA Trocken, Rheingau, 2004: Light golden, opens with generous acidity, that settles down nicely to reveal lively and complex peach, floral and spicy notes along with light hints of yeast. Dry and vivid, with minerals rising on the long finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 99. Score 90.

Koshler Ruprecht, Riesling, Kabinett, Kallstadter Steinacker, Pfalz, 2004: Traditional and robust, light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, off-dry, with a honeyed and lightly oily texture. Showing a complex array of apricot, nectarine, spices and pine cones on the nose and palate. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best 2008-2012. NIS 130. Score 90.

Enrich-Schonleber, Riesling, Kabinett, Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen, Nahe, 2004: Semi-dry (perhaps near-sweet is a better description), medium- to full-bodied, with a light sparkle when first poured and balanced acidity. Unfolds on the nose and palate to reveal lightly honeyed apricots quince, passion fruit and sweet corn, all backed up nicely by a hint of white pepper. A long and generous finish here. Drink now-2011. NIS 119. Score 90.

H. Donnhoff, Riesling Spatlese, Norheimer Kircheck, Nahe, 2004: Light golden with deep orange reflections, showing apricot, mandarin orange, mango and minerals on the nose and palate, which are joined by hints of green tea and lemon pie flavors. Long and delicious. Drink now-2015, perhaps longer. NIS 239. Score 92.

Peter Jakob Kuhn, Riesling, Spatlese, Oestrich Lenchen, Rheingau, 2004: Opens trim and tight and slowly opens to reveal generous sweetness, which is backed up nicely by minerals and acidity. On the nose and palate: apples, peaches, citrus and slate, all leading to an appealingly sweet and spicy finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2018. NIS 229. Score 92.

Muller Catoir, Sheurebe, Spatlese, Haardter Manderling, Pfalz, 2004: Full-bodied, with generous sweetness balanced nicely by acidity and minerals. Opens with peaches and sweet herbs, which yield to honeyed apricots and passion fruit aromas and flavors, all leading to a long, lively finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2008-2015. NIS 175. Score 90.

Muller-Catoir, Rieslaner, Spatlese, Mussbacher Esselshaut, Pfalz, 2001: If the sweet cream, mango and pie crust aromas here don't catch your attention, the pronounced pineapple, peach, citrus, cherries and minerals most surely will, for they almost jump up and vie for your attention. Despite the "competition" a subtle, sophisticated and elegant wine with just the right levels of sweetness and acidity to keep it going on and on. Drink now-2012. NIS 230. Score 91.

Three from Kippis

The three following wines are available directly from the importer Kippis. Further information can obtained and orders placed by telephone at (052)2462466 or by e-mail at info@kippis.co.il.

Basserman-Jordan, Riesling, Kabinett, Deidesheimer Kiselberg, Trocken, Pfalz, 2005: Medium-bodied, soft and round, with generous citrus, peach and mineral notes, which open to reveal an appealing, long and peppery finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 130. Score 89.

Basserman-Jordan, Resling, Spatlese, Forster Jesuitengarten, Pfalz, 2003: Light golden in color, medium-bodied with generous acidity to match the light sweetness here. Opens with grapefruit and ginger, goes on to reveal floral and vanilla aromas and flavors. Approachable and enjoyable now but needs time to show its elegance. Best 2009-2014. NIS 190. Score 90.

Basserman-Jordan, Riesling Kabinett, Deidesheimer Leihohole, Pfalz, 2003: Light golden with orange reflections, with gentle sweetness balanced nicely by acidity and minerals. On the nose and palate grapefruit, ginger and white pepper all leading to a moderately-long and crisp finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 150. Score 88.