Wine and Spirits / Biodynamic wines - logic or New Age nonsense?

I recently attended a tasting of wines made by biodynamic methods, hosted by local importer Giaconda. Biodynamic farming is somewhat controversial as its principles include a combination of pseudoscience, mysticism and metaphysics (for example, burying a bull's horn filled with cow manure in the corner of a field, or only trimming vines during certain phases of the moon).

Putting the New Age and metaphysical nonsense aside however, and looking at somewhat more realistic aspects, there are some advantages to wines made using these methods.

First of all, biodynamics goes far beyond mere organic farming. Organic farming demands the ban of non-organic fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides and is based on sound scientific-farming methods.

Biodynamics, however, demands that far more "rules" be followed. Farmers are required to make all of their compost only from materials grown on their property. What this means, for example, is that farmers plant crops for their animals to eat and then use the animals' waste as fertilizer.

With specific regard to grape vines, this means that in order to create a self-sustaining environment, one must also raise animals, plant olive trees, shrubs, fruit trees, vegetables and herbs - the idea being to develop a culture in which "life is at ease with itself."

One example often provided is the planting of certain kinds of fennel plants, because those plants in turn attract beneficial insects such as ladybugs, which in turn eat other insects that might, in their own turn, harm the vines. All of which is fair enough - for who can complain or wonder about nature and man being able to live in harmony?

Following are my notes on the biodynamic wines I recently tasted. The notes speak for themselves, but first let me add one major comment - to the effect that, biodynamics or not, each of the wines tasted reflected in almost exquisite ways the terroir of each region. More than that, each wine most definitely carried the signature and reflected the philosophy of its winemaker. All of the wines reviewed are imported by Giaconda (www.giaconda.co.il, in Hebrew); the best telephone number for placing orders is (03) 602-2746.

Weingut Peter Jakob Kuhn, Riesling, Drei Trauben, Trocken, Rheingau, Germany, 2006: Deep almost burnished gold in color with orange and green reflections, showing crisp minerality and generous, lightly peppered apples and summer fruits, with appealing overlays of oyster shells. Categorized quite accurately as spitzenwein, which translates into "a top quality wine." Drink now-2013. NIS 221. Score 92.

Weingut Wittmann, Riesling, Aulerde, Grosses Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2007: Deep polished gold in color, a ripe and aromatic wine showing rich and round. Needs time to open in the glass, but as it does shows a generous array of tropical fruits, apricots and citrus. Dry, firm and focused, showing appealing peppery notes that linger nicely on a long finish. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best from mid-2010 through 2014. NIS 260. Score 93.

Domaine du Closel, Chateau des Vaults, La Jalousie, Savennieres, Loire, France, 2006: A traditional Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, showing stony minerals and summer fruits, complemented nicely by hints of cardamom and ginger. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 117. Score 89.

Domaine Nicolas Joly, Roche aux Moines, Clos de la Bergerie, Savennieres, Loire, France, 2006: Truly delicious Chenin Blanc, opening with aromas and flavors of stony minerals, butterscotch and vanilla, going on to reveal citrus and citrus peel notes on a background that hints from moment to moment of honeysuckle, green almonds, cloves and ginger. Coats the mouth and lingers beautifully. Drink now-2018. NIS 283. Score 93.

Domaine Marcel Deiss, Engelgarten, Bergheim, Alsace, France, 2005: A blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir (the Pinot Noir with absolutely minimal skin contact). A rich, almost decadent wine, with strong mineral overtones and fine acidity to keep everything in fine balance. Opens with quince and peach notes and goes on to reveal smoky and light musky notes that cannot help but tantalize. Long and generous. Drink now-2013. NIS 225. Score 93.

Domaine Weinbach, Gewurztraminer, Cuvee Laurence, Altenbourg, Alsace, France, 2005: Typical for Domaine Weinbach, but with its near oily texture and honeyed, flora notes not fully typical of Gewurztraminer. Still, this selection is "good stuff" indeed - full-bodied, with generous notes of licorice, cinnamon and anise parting to reveal generous lychee and ripe summer fruit aromas and flavors, all with a note of oyster liquor that lingers nicely on the palate. Difficult to match this particular bottle of wine with food, but irresistible when sipped on its own. Or perhaps with a bit of ripe Brie cheese. Drink now-2016. NIS 351. Score 94.

Domaine Marc Tempe, Gewurztraminer, Grand Cru Mambourg, Alsace, France, 2003: Not an especially good vintage year, but a very good wine! Dark gold, with a deep nose that presents butterscotch, coconut and honey and opens in the glass to show an appealing array of lychee, white peaches and citrus peel, on a background of vanilla, ginger and white pepper. An intense wine, with roasted herbs on the long, long finish. Drink now-2014. NIS 288. Score 93.