Wine and Spirits / Aroma therapy

As I have written before, one of the great pleasures of the wine critic is in attending tastings hosted by importers, as such events usually offer the opportunity to taste a large number of wines in a professional setting. For me, the ideal setting for such tastings is a place with minimal aromas, where the amount of talking on the part of the importer is limited to only necessary factual information and my colleagues keep their mouths firmly closed until the end of the tasting. After all, I really don't care what others think of the wines we're tasting. I prefer silence in order to concentrate on my own reactions and on writing my tasting notes.

In general, I prefer tastings at which food is not offered, as the aromas and flavors of the food interfere with one's ability to taste and evaluate the wines. It's fine with me if a light repast is served after the tasting (after all, tasting wine, even though one spits and does not actually imbibe, whets an appetite). I don't have much difficulty when food is served at a tasting because I can always walk away to a relatively aroma-free area in order to taste the wine and make my notes before returning to the table and partaking in whatever food is offered.

I recently attended two such tastings, in both cases of wines now appearing locally. The first was a tasting of Spanish wines, held by the long established Scottish Company. These wines can be purchased at the importer's store, located at 23 HaTarucha Street (the end of Dizengoff Street at the entrance to the Tel Aviv Port), or further information can be obtained and orders placed by calling (03) 543-4543.

Sandeman, Fino Sherry, Jerez, Spain, n.v.: Because most people think of Sherry wines as sweet, they are often surprised when they taste their first fino, because these pale blonde wines are almost always crisply dry. With aromas and flavors of almonds, citrus fruits and herbs, along with flavors that are crisp and well balanced, this may not be one of the greatest and most aristocratic fino Sherrys of the world but it is most pleasant when served as an aperitif. At its price of NIS 65, unbeatable value for money. Drink now. Score 87.

Pares Balta, Mas Petit, Penedes, Spain, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, a soft country-style wine with generous notes of red berries, cherry and tobacco. Developed in oak for 7 months, showing somewhat chunky tannins that go very nicely indeed with grilled meats. Drink now. Excellent value at NIS 49. Score 86.

Pares Balta, Absis, Penedes, Spain, 2003: A blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (62%, 21%, 10% and 7% respectively), aged for 18 months in new French oak. With once firm tannins and generous spicy wood now well integrated, opening to reveal aromas and flavors of currants, blackberries and blueberries, on a background of cigar-box notes. A concentrated and intense wine, showing long and generous. Drink now-2022. NIS 520. Score 92.

Grata Vinum, GVS, Priorat, Spain, 2006: Super-dark garnet, full-bodied and concentrated, showing muscles but not afraid to show its gentle side. The firm tannins that one feels on the opening attack settle down nicely in the glass to reveal black fruits, bitter almonds and a generous note of dark chocolate. Long and generous. Drink now-2018. NIS 290. Score 91.

Marques de Caceres, Gran Reserva, Rioja, 2001: With once firm tannins and generous wood now well integrated, a dark garnet blend of 85% Tempranillo and 15% of Graciano and Garnacha. Firm and concentrated, with a generous note of black fruits and minerals, and opening on the palate to show black cherry, blackberry and licorice notes. A long-lingering Old World wine with concentration and elegance. Drink now-2013. NIS 180. Score 90.

Marques de Caceres, Gaudium, 2002: Intensely dark garnet, deeply tannic, with generous but not offensive wood on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins, and near jammy cherry, raspberry and wild berry notes supported comfortably by a bed of spices. Long and generous. Drink now-2012. NIS 320. Score 91.

Domino Romano, RDE, Ribera del Duero, 2006: Made entirely from Tinto Fino grapes, developed in new French oak for 13 months and now showing super-dark garnet, with generous notes of mint and spicy oak on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, showing generous near-jammy black fruits and closing with a surprising hint of sweetness on the long finish. Drink now-2015. NIS 300. Score 92.

Another tasting I attended was hosted by Giaconda and featured four wines from France's Rhone Valley. The wines should be ordered directly from the importer. Prices quoted are those offered to "members" of Giaconda's Web site. Membership is free and carries no strings whatsoever. The best way to join and place orders is to visit their site at www.giaconda.co.il (in Hebrew).

As to the winery itself, located in the heart of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape area, their wines are grown and produced organically. As this and earlier tastings of Gigognan have demonstrated, the winery makes no effort to produce "blockbusters," focusing instead on an older-world style that, at least for me, calls to mind the tried-and-true expression "muscular but with a gentle and elegant touch."

Chateau Gigognan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc, Clos de Roi, 2006: A white Chateauneuf, a blend of Roussanne, Grenache and Clairette (46%, 45% and 9% respectively), fermented and aged for one year in second-use barriques. A ripe and lush wine, showing mango, peach, almond and floral notes, those supported by hints of lemon meringue pie and mineral notes, all leading to a long and generous finish. Drink now-2014. NIS 325. Score 92.

Chateau Gigognan, Cotes du Rhone Villages, Bois des Moines, 2005: If a wine can ever be described as "juicy," this is one of those wines. Ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins in fine balance with fruits and acidity. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre (60%, 30% and 10% respectively). A violet and raspberry rich nose, going on to show flavors of plums, graphite and black licorice and, on the generous finish, a nice note of minerality rising. Drink now-2010, perhaps longer. NIS 92. Score 90.

Chateau Gigognan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vigne du Regent, 2005: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full), a muscular but remarkably gentle wine packed with an array of aromas and flavors. On opening attack of blackberries and dark chocolate, followed by dried figs and espresso coffee, all on a tantalizingly bitter-sweet background. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, drinking beautifully now but don't hesitate to cellar until 2015. NIS 189. Score 92.