Wine and Spirits / A fine Finnish

In Finnish, "kippis" is the traditional toast when raising a glass of wine or other alcoholic beverage. Kippis is also the name of a small local importer that opened seven years ago. As is the case with most importers, its list ranges from high to medium quality wines with prices ranging from expensive to quite reasonable. Some are reviewed here. To purchase directly from the importer or to locate the store nearest you, speak with Zohar Goldeberg at 052-246-2466, or send an email to zohar@kippis.co.il.

Beyerskloof, Stellenbosch, 1999: Full-bodied, dark garnet, with once firm and closing tannins now starting to reside, this concentrated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot shows both excellent balance and focus. Aged in new oak for 23 months. Generous sweet cedar and spicy oak on the nose and palate but those in fine balance with the whole and showing multiple layers of black cherries and currants. Long, satisfying and mouth-filling. Drinking nicely now till 2009. NIS 268. Score 92.

Beyerskloof, Stellenbosch, 1998: Dark royal purple, full-bodied blend, 77 percent Cabenet Sauvignon and 23 percent Merlot. Excellent balance between generous new oak and currant, plum and black cherry fruits, all with a lively hint of acidity and a tantalizingly long finish of red licorice and Mediterranean herbs. Generous and long. Drink now till 2009. NIS 298. Score 91.

Beyerskloof, Pinotage, Stelenbosch, 2003: Youthful garnet toward purple with orange reflections, this medium- to full-bodied red shows soft, well-integrating tannins and on the nose and palate forward berry, plum and cassis fruits. Good balancing acidity here and on the moderately long finish nice hints of spicy wood. Drink now till 2008. NIS 89. Score 89.

Kanonkop, Paul Sauer, Stellenbosch, 2002: Full-bodied, intense and concentrated, with muscular tannins that need time to integrate but with balance and structure that bode well. On the nose and palate of this Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend, generous currants, near-sweet cassis and generous chocolate together with hints of minerals and black licorice. Long, generous and mouth-filling. Best 2007-2012. Score 91. NIS 175.

Kanonkop, Kadette, 2001: Medium-dark garnet in color, fuller in body than one usually expects from this wine, but now fully mature, the once ripe cherry and plum flavors and aromas now taking on somewhat of a perhaps overly herbal nature. Still drinking nicely but not for further cellaring. Drink up. NIS 88. Score 86.

Swartland, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, 2005: Call the grape from which the wine was made by its French name of Chenin Blanc or by its South African name of Steen as you like. Light golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, with primarily grapefruit and nutty aromas and flavors. An acceptable entry-level white. Drink now. NIS 44. Score 80.

Swartland, Shiraz-Malbec, 2004: An odd coupling of varieties that never seems to come fully together. Ruby red, medium-bodied, with medium levels of somewhat chunky and country-style tannins, a hint of sweet cedar, together with cherry and currant aromas, those dominated somewhat by herbal and minty flavors that turn bitter on the finish. Drink now. NIS 66. Score 83.

Swartland, Cuvee Brut, n.v.: Made neither by the Champenoise nor the charmat method but simply by adding carbon dioxide to the wine, this Sauvignon Blanc-based bubbly has a mousse that dies too quickly and fat, not at all intense or concentrated bubbles. Lacking fruit or length, the beverage reminded me more of flavored soda water than wine. NIS 67. Score 75.

Fairview/Charles Back, Goats do Roam, 2002: I have never quite figured out whether it is the name of the wine (an obvious play on words of Cotes du Rhone) that helps this blend of Shiraz, Pinotage, Grenache, Cinsault and several other varieties to sell or the wine itself. Whatever, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and easy to take blackberry, black cherry and peppery aromas and flavors. A simple but pleasant enough quaffer. NIS 69. Score 85.

Villiera, Gewurztraminer, 2004: Medium-bodied, with a hint of sweetness running through to highlight peach, apricot and lightly spicy aromas and flavors. Not complex but pleasant. An acceptable, entry level wine. Drink now. NIS 67. Score 83.

From Portugal

Alexandre Magno, Vinho Tinto, Dao, 1999: Cherry red, light in body, with almost unfelt tannins and mouth-puckering acidity. Under that perhaps some cherry fruit juice flavors. Drink now if at all. NIS 82. Score 68.

Romanisco, Vinho Tinto, Douro, 1996: Light- to medium bodied, with nearly unfelt tannins, this simple little wine offers up a few currant and plum fruits, those starting to show signs of caramelization. Past its peak so drink up. NIS 102. Score 79.

Casilinho, Santo Adriao, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2003: In its youth medium-bodied and thus a bit richer and more "serious" than most Vinho Verde wines, and with fresh peach, grapefruit, and litchi aromas and flavors. Now, however, someone seems to have forgotten that Vinho Verde is meant to be consumed within six months to a year of its vintage and although still with generous acidity, it is rather one dimensional, tasting primarily of grapefruit juice. Drink up. NIS 56. Score 78.

From Germany

Weingut Merz, Riesling, Spatlese, Ockenheimer Hockenmuhle, Rheinhessen, 2002: One of the best from Merz in quite a while! Medium-bodied but concentrated, with good balancing acidity to set off the sweetness and add a welcome touch of crispness. On the nose and palate, apricots, peaches, mangos, spices, rosewater and minerals, all coming together in ways that cannot help but fascinate. Best as an aperitif or dessert wine. Best 2006-2012, perhaps longer. NIS 92. Score 91.

Weingut Merz, Ockenheimber Laberstall, Riesling, Spaetlese trocken, Rheinhessen, 2000: Generous minerals in this medium-bodied near-dry white and on the palate an appealing array of lemon, melon and green apple, matched by an appealing overlay of spiciness. Good balancing acidity and a moderately-long finish. Drink now till 2007. NIS 92. Score 90.

From France

Charpentron & Cie, Pineau des Charentes Blanc, Moulin de Merienne: My notes of April 2003 still holds: Light gold in color, light to medium-bodied and with an appealing honeyed and dried apricot nose and flavors of ripe peaches and pineapple. Lightly smoky and an appealing spicy finish. NIS 122. Score 87.