'We want freedom, life and good beer'

TAYBEH, West Bank - Confession: The writer of this article is neither a fan nor a drinker of beer. He was thus in need of expert opinion to determine the quality of Taybeh Beer, produced in the West Bank village of Taybeh, northeast of Ramallah. Most people polled thought the beer was good. Jonathan, a coach for the goal keepers on the all-star Palestinian women's soccer league, who attended the Oktoberfest held in Taybeh, pronounced the dark, golden beer "excellent. It looks and feels fresh, with all the foam on top." Flanked by a group of Germans currently touring the West Bank, Jonathan added, "This may surprise you but you can even buy Taybeh Beer in Germany." Lia, a 20-something woman, concurred, "They do fine work." Only Paul, a Swedish journalist, didn't agree with the consensus, "It reminds me of girls' beer. Very light," he observed, grinning and guzzling a second glass.

The German group appeared highly entertained - perhaps because the Oktoberfest tradition was born in Munich. (In a show of respect for the village's Muslim neighbors, the Taybeh Beer Festival was scheduled for September this year, to precede the month of Ramadan, slated to begin during the first half of October.)

Legend has it that, a few hundred years ago, a German prince celebrated his wedding by inviting the residents of his fiefdom to a week of merrymaking and beer drinking. Since then, the beer festival tradition has spread to other parts of Europe, the United States and, during the past three years, to the West Bank as well. The sight that greets those who attend the festival appears almost incongruous with the reality of the Palestinian West Bank and Gaza Strip. A coed Palestinian dance troupe performs a folkloric debka on stage. Several dozen people in the audience watch and cheer. The beer flow continues at the surrounding booths that adjoin an Arabic sign, which reads "The Palestinian Authority Office of Local Government." Other booths offer shwarma, falafel, hamburgers and soft drinks.

Vendors hock other wares produced in Taybeh: Olive oil, honey, ceramics and even henna designs for the hands and body. The alcoholic event takes place in the only Christian village in the environs, surrounded by 16 Muslim villages and Ramallah. According to the Gospel, Jesus passed through Taybeh, which was then called Ephraim, on his journey to the Cross. The view from the village is picturesque and lovely, and Taybeh is home to one of the oldest churches in the West Bank, the St. George Greek Orthodox Church.

The idea of importing the Oktoberfest to Taybeh was hatched by two brothers, Daoud Khoury, head of the village's local council, and Nadim Khoury, owner of the microbrewery established in the village about 10 years ago. "We thought about initiating a beer festival from the moment we established the brewery," Daoud explains. "But it was anything but easy. We realized that we couldn't create a celebration that focused only on beer. So we decided to hold a festival that featured all of Taybeh's products. That way, we could market all the locally produced goods and promote the economy."

Nadim says he has had no problems with his Muslim neighbors or with representatives of Muslim organizations ever since the project was launched in 2005. "Other factors included, our idea was to build bridges between various Palestinian groups and to the outside world. On Saturday, members of dozens of foreign consulates visited here, including the U.S. Consul General. We invite all our neighbors to celebrate with us and they come. We want to promote the economy and cultural pluralism. Last night, 4,000 people visited. Today, we expect a similar number - not all of them Christians. When everyone has a good time, and some even drink, that's significant."

Meanwhile, a few clowns take to the stage. The troupe, called "The Smile of Palestine," is a Palestinian answer to Bozo, Popo, and their ilk. "Everyone, stand up," orders one clown. "Yalla! Stand up and do as I do." The "Chicken Dance" plays in the background. Dozens of children imitate the clowns' movements, but the adults are less enthusiastic.

Daoud is nonetheless proud of his village's unique character. "There is no doubt that our religious beliefs are exceptional. This land remained Christian for hundreds of years and we must preserve its sanctity. Our relations with our neighbors are excellent and many of them come to the festival. Of course, there are closed-minded people everywhere. But we have overcome obstacles and we hope that our Jewish brothers will join us next year."

Despite today's idyllic circumstances, two years ago the residents of Taybeh and their neighbors experienced an emotional storm that shook them to their cores: In a local version of "Romeo and Juliet," a Christian girl and a young Muslim man from a neighboring village fell in love, sparking violent confrontations between village residents. That conflict was resolved but Christian residents still refuse to sell land to non-Christian families.

A group of teenage girls watches Hana Shkayer play the oud. Thezy look as though they came from the casting for "A Star is Born 5" (the Israeli version of "American Idol"). The girls sport trendy sunglasses, fashionable clothes, extreme makeup, the latest shoulder bags and, of course, third-generation mobile phones with cameras. They actually came to watch the Palestinian hip-hop bands Town-G and Boikutt perform in the evening show.

However, even this festive ambience and the Khoury brothers' beer does not manage to suppress complaints about the Israeli occupation. "Our economy has crumbled as a result of checkpoints, settlements and confiscation of land," says Daoud. "We are coping with an enormous problem of emigration - particularly among members of the Christian population who only want to live their lives in peace. Every week, month and year more and more people leave. I want my children to live for Palestine - not die for it. We are proud Palestinians. What do we really want? An independent nation. For me, this festival is a means of non-violent opposition, which aims to make it clear to Israelis and the entire world: We are not terrorists, but people who want freedom, life and good beer. The best. Make sure to stress that the beer is the very best."