The Quietness of the Diamonds

The unpretentious, refined new collection by Tovi Farber.

Jewelry designer Tovi Farber moved in March to a new location that has an aura of quiet elegance. Geographically, this was not a daring step; Farber merely moved a few buildings north of her original address. "But," she says, "it was important to me that the jewelry would have a larger display space, that the clients would have more room to look around, and that the studio would be adjacent to the store."

The jewelry that Farber designs and for which she takes such care to provide a suitable backdrop is made of a combination of gold, white diamonds, and stones of different sizes and shapes. These are unpretentious and refined pieces whose quiet elegance transmits a sense of both meticulousness and fluidity. The stones used have undergone a minimum of polishing so as not to change their appearance. Or, as Farber defines her summer collection: This is a story of visibility that springs from the quietness of the diamonds.

Farber's current collection is vast and varied; she refuses to restrict it, as many other Israeli designers do, and adds and changes items throughout the entire season. Every one of the pieces is made by hand on the spot and is unique - there are no two pieces with the same stone and the same polish; each one differs, at least slightly, from the others.

At the moment, the core of the collection includes 12 long gold chains set with quartz and aquamarine stones. "I like layers of jewelry," Farber says, "whether these are chains, bracelets or rings." The chains are long enough to be worn double but can also be worn as they are, and they all have several clasps so they can be closed at a shorter or longer length, thus creating a different look.

However, what stands out is actually a short necklace. It is made up entirely of small diamonds that do not sparkle, and the gold chain behind them is invisible. What one sees, then, is a fine line of diamonds that appears to be hanging by itself on the neck of the woman wearing it.

The group of bracelets in the selection also fits in with the idea of layers. They resemble Moroccan bracelets made of gold, with different widths and strips, or arranged as chains with links that can be piled onto the hand. Farber prefers to work with yellow gold because it is softer than white gold, which is difficult to work with.

The rings in the collection likewise continue this line. They are narrow and set with various stones, and several of them can be worn on each finger. The engagement rings, though, are different from what one would expect. The line does not consist of the usual solitaire rings that young Israeli women like so much. On the contrary, it consists of signature rings set with different stones or ancient coins that Farber collects with a view to producing combinations that are out of the ordinary.

The earrings in her collection go, in modular fashion, with the rest of the pieces. Farber is fond of hoops to which long or short pendants can be attached, and that are set with various stones. The pendants can be detached from the earrings and attached to the bracelets or necklaces in the collection, making it possible to mix and match the pieces.

Prices: Bracelets: NIS 1,400 - NIS 14,500; Rings: NIS 1,000 - NIS 26,500; earrings: NIS 2,500 - NIS 8,900.