Sicilian Successes

Even more than they are concerned about the quality of various harvest years, large and small Israeli wineries devote a great deal of time to trying to understand how they can better succeed at exporting their wines. If there is a lesson to be learned by those wineries it is from the wineries on the island of Sicily, for in the past ten years Sicilian wines have become broadly accepted in the United States, the U.K. and even within France. Going a step further, it might be that the best lessons might be learned from Sicily's family-owned Planeta winery whose high- and low-end wines are selling like proverbial hotcakes, even in our own little country.

Founded in the 1990s by the Planeta family and currently producing about 2.2 million bottles annually - well more than 50% of which are destined for export - this winery has succeeded because their wines, either at lower or higher prices are of high quality, reflect the distinct soil and climatic conditions of Sicily and are quite often excellent value for money.

With four medium-sized and three small vineyards spread throughout the island, the winery has a separate winemaker at each facility but the senior winemaker, Alessio Planeta, is in charge of coordinating the entire operation. The charming Signore Panetta recently visited Israel to present a collection of his new wines, those being imported by the French-Israeli group. To purchase directly from the importer or to locate the store nearest you carrying these wines, telephone 09-7411774.

Planeta, Chardonnay, Sicily, 2006: Almost always Planeta's most complex wine, and this year no exception. Fermented and aged sur lie in barriques, a full-bodied wine showing lightly charred oak along with apple, pineapple, apricot and tropical fruits on a creamy background that shows notes of toffee and caramel. Long, generous and elegant. Drink now-2012. NIS 180. Score 93.

Planeta, Syrah, Sicily, 2004: Delicious and complex. Impenetrably dark garnet, full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle spicy wood influences integrating comfortably to show generous blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruits, those supported by notes of bitter-sweet chocolate and, on the long finish a hint of raspberry jam. Drinking beautifully now-2013. NIS 185. Score 93.

Planeta, Merlot, Sicily, 2005: Blended with 5 percent of Petite Verdot, dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, a deep and concentrated wine, reflecting its 12 months in French oak with gentle vanilla and spicy overlays that play on the nose and palate. A generous array of black cherries, plums, currants and spices and, from mid-palate sweet cedar and wild yeasts. Fruits and firm tannins rise on the long finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 225. Score 91.

Planeta, Cometa, Sicily, 2007: Although the white Fiano grape originated in Campagnia, it has been adopted as Sicily's own and this wine, made entirely from those grapes, shows dark golden straw with a distinct green tint, rich, full-bodied and buttery. Good acidity pulls the elements together to show tempting grapefruit, nectarine and lychee fruits, supported nicely by floral and spicy notes. Unoaked, remarkably fresh and elegant, the wine is drinking well now but will cellar comfortably until 2010. NIS 210. Score 90.

Planeta, Santa Cecilia, Sicily, 2005: Made entirely from Nero d'Avola grapes, aged for 12 months in French oak, this dark ruby towards purple wine shows medium-body and dense but caressing tannins. On the nose and palate black cherries, berries, red licorice and hints of minerals along with notes of vanilla. Finishes with an almost jammy berry note. Needs another year or so for its elements to come together. Best 2009-2013. NIS 190. Score 89.

Planeta, Burdese, Sicily, 2004: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrated nicely and showing appealing red berry, cassis and vanilla notes, all on a background of white peppery minerals. Easy to drink, but with just enough complexity to make it a fine match to a wide variety of dishes. Drink now-2010. NIS 170. Score 88.

Planeta, La Segretta Rosso, Sicily, 2007: An unoaked blend of Nero d'Avolo, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc (50, 25, 20 and 5 percent respectively). Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, a round and caressing wine opening to show red and black berries, currants and cassis fruits, those with a hint of earthy minerals. Fine acidity makes this a candidate for light chilling. A fine quaffer as well-matched with grilled seafood or fish as with small cuts of beef or lamb. Drink now-2010. NIS 80. Score 88.

Kosher from France and New Zealand

Considering the large number of fine kosher wines produced within Israel, quite a few people have asked if importing kosher wines from other countries might not be something akin to carrying coals to Newcastle, that is to say, something pointless and superfluous. My response is a loud and hardy "nonsense," for kosher or not, wines from abroad offer different styles, different personalities and indeed, even different aromatic and flavor profiles, and exploring them is one of the great pleasures of the world of wine. Following are reviews of three recently-arrived kosher wines, those imported by Tzur importers. To locate the store nearest you carrying these wines, contact the importer by telephoning 03-5793211.

Chateau Labegorce Zede, Margaux, 2001 (Kosher Edition): A kosher wine that has beguiled the four times I have tasted it, because it has always shown better than the regular (i.e. non-kosher) edition, and because it seems to show positive and unanticipated developments in the bottle each time I taste it. Full-bodied, with fine balance between gently mouth-coating tannins and dusty oak. Opens to reveal a complex array of blackcurrant, blackberry and purple plums on a spicy and vanilla-rich background. Generous and long, and perhaps finally showing its best. Drink now-2011. NIS 260. Score 90. K

Goose Bay, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand 2006 (Kosher Edition): Deep golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, with a generous overlay of vanilla creme patisserie parting to reveal apricot, peach and citrus-like acidity and minerality that keep the wine lively. A generous floral and fruity finish. Drink now. NIS 125. Score 88. K

Goose Bay, Pinot Noir, East Coast, New Zealand, 2006 (Kosher Edition): Cherry red towards garnet, medium-bodied, with super-soft tannins and showing cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruits on a lightly spicy and cedary-wood background. A not overly-complex wine, but a very pleasant quaffer. Drink now. NIS 125. Score 86. K