Hand-picked and high-quality

I attended my first tasting at Giaconda two years ago when Anat Sela and Rafaela Ronen who had started this boutique importing venture were for all practical purposes unknown in the wine world and touted fewer than a dozen wines in their catalogue. That catalogue has since expanded considerably and, while a major focus remains on the white wines of Germany, it will soon include roses and whites from France. More importantly, Giaconda has comfortably demonstrated that the wines hand-picked for the public have been of consistently high quality and are often excellent value for money.

The company continues to sell directly to clients via direct contacts, tasting seminars and the Internet. Those interested can contact Giaconda by telephone at (03) 602-2746 or by e-mail (wine@giaconda.co.il). The company Web site (http://www.giaconda.co.il) offers its full list of wines.

Chateau Bela, Riesling, Lot No.7104, Sturvo Muza, Slovakia, 2003: Made by the family that owns the German based Weingut Egon Muller and every bit as successful as their Mosel-Saar-Ruwer vineyards. With white peach and apple fruits on first attack, which part to reveal stony-minerals and apricots. Crisply dry but with hints of spices and honey that creep in gently on the finish. Simultaneously refreshing and complex. As the wine develops in the bottle look as well for light earthy and petrol notes. Drink now-2012. NIS 180. Score 91.

Weingut Peter Jakob Kuhn, Riesling, Trocken, Doosberg, 3 Traube, Oestrich, Rheingau, 2006: Arguably the best producer in Germany's Rheingau region, Kuhn relies on organically raised grapes and wild yeasts to produce his often splendid wines. Gold, with orange and green reflections, the wines is full-bodied, with a hint of petrol funkiness, and with apricot, lime and apple fruits on the nose and palate, those backed up nicely by crisp minerals. The wine is decidedly dry, long, mouth-filling and elegant. Drink now-2012. NIS 221. Score 90.

Weingut Emrich-Schonleber, Riesling Spatlese-Trocken, Monzinger Halenberg, Nahe, 2006: A late-harvest but dry white, showing tempting a mineral overlay that parts nicely to reveal peach, apricot and grapefruit notes, all with a light, tantalizing hint of sweetness running through. Long and peppery at this stage, and as the wine develops in the bottle look as well for light petrol and floral notes. Drink now-2012. NIS 225. Score 90.

Weingut Emrich-Schonleber, Riesling, Lenz, Nahe, 2006: Opens slowly on the nose and palate because of its youth but when it does look for fine balance between light sweetness, acidity and an array of apricot, citrus peel, grapefruit and oranges, which are rich with minerals and lead to a long, just spicy-enough finish to enchant. Drink now-2012. Superb value at NIS 100. Score 90.

Weingut J. J.Prum, Riesling, Spatlese, Wehlener Sonnenhur, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2006: In its infancy now but already showing light gold with orange and green tints and opening in the glass to reveal apricot, orange and orange peel notes. Give this one time and it will develop overlays of lime, flinty minerals and creme patisserie. With fine balance and structure that bode well for the future, the wine is approachable and delicious even now but will be at its best only from 2012-2030. NIS 216. Score 94.

Weingut Muller-Catoir, Rieslaner, Spatlese, MussbacherEsselshaut, Pfalz, 2005: Opens quietly with notes of citrus and peaches but after a few moments in the glass bursts forward gloriously with mango, apple pie, pineapple, creme patisserie and minerals, and finally to a light petrol flavor with spicy notes. It may sound like an oxymoron but here is a "crisply sweet wine", the lively acidity and sweetness coming together as an elegant and coherent whole. Drink now-2013. NIS 230. Score 92.

Weingut Donnhoff, Riesling, Auslese, Nedeerhauser, Hermannshole, Gold Capsule, 2006: Deep gold, with a rich petrol and floral nose, a concentrated and intense wine with dried apricot, citrus and peach notes supported by flinty mineral notes. Fine balance between deep sweetness and acidity. Finely tuned and elegant, as the wine continues to develop in the bottle look for deeper petrol and mineral notes and, if my guess is correct, a note of red licorice. Approachable now but best from 2012-2030. NIS 243. Score 94.

Weingut Jos. Christoffel Jr., Riesling, Auslese, Urziger Wurzgarten, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ***, 1990: Medium- to full-bodied, with moderate sweetness set off by lively acidity. Opens with floral and petrol notes, goes on to reveal peach, apricot and apple flavors, those complemented nicely by notes of cantaloupe, minerals and honey. On the long finish: spices, honey and peach against a lively and complex background. Fully mature and drinking beautifully now but should hold its peak until 2012. NIS 245. Score 93.