Bigger and better

It has become fashionable in some circles to say that large wineries are incapable of producing excellent or exciting wines. All of which, of course, is nothing more than a form of snobbery, for some of the best wines in the world come from very large wineries indeed. No one, for example, has ever suggested that Australia's Penfolds, California's Beringer or France's Chapoutier are anything but large wineries, and those wineries constantly produce some of the very best wines of their continents.

So it is in Israel as well. The Golan Heights Winery, now producing more than 6 million bottles annually, certainly remains the nation's very best winery. Even Carmel in recent years has shown us that even the country's largest winery is capable of giving us excellent wines. Following are reviews of some of the recent releases of both of those wineries.

As always, an asterisk indicates a good value and a K means kosher.

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2002: Dark garnet toward royal purple in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy oak that yield nicely to reveal flavors and aromas of red currants and berries on first attack. These give way to layers of sweet cedar, vanilla, leather and, on the long finish, a hint of anise. Needs a bit of time but promises to be round, elegant and long. Drink now-2012. NIS 95. Score 99. K (*)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2004: Round and ripe, aged partly in oak, partly in stainless steel, with the classic spicy, litchi and lime aromas and flavors of the variety, which are set off nicely by hints of coconut, a gentle spiciness and just the right amount of acidity to add liveliness and balance. Harmonious, long and complex. All in all an enchanting wine, certainly the best Viognier produced in Israel to date. Drink now-2007. NIS 65. Score 91. K (*)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2002: Medium to full bodied, concentrated and packed with tannins - but those are soft and already integrating nicely. Multiple layers of green berry, plums and hints of spices, chocolate and vanilla. Plenty of oak here, but that will settle down in time, and the wine will soften and show increased complexity with tobacco and floral overtones. Drink now-2010. NIS 95. Score 91. K (*)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2002: This medium to full-bodied wine, with soft, almost sweet tannins and good balance between gentle wood and fruit is still young but already shows the potential for elegance. On the palate are wild red berry, cherry, sweet cedar and a light spicy overlay, as well as a hint of espresso coffee on the finish. Best 2007-2010. NIS 129. Score 90. K

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Gamla, 2003: Deep garnet, medium to full-bodied, with still firm tannins but with balance and structure that bode well for the future. Generous berry, currant and plum fruits here, with overlays of sweet cedar, hints of milk chocolate and an appealing herbaceous overlay. Drink now-2009. NIS 53. Score 89. K (*)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2003: Medium-bodied, with round tannins and tempting aromas and flavors of plums, blueberries and violets. Gentle flavors lead to a long ripe fruit finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 59. Score 89. K (*)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 2003: Always reliable, this oak aged medium to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc shows good balance between tannins, wood and black fruits, all with hints of vanilla and an appealing spicy finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 65. Score 87. K

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Golan, 2004: Dark ruby red, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and only the gentlest hint of wood. Fresh and fruity with currant and berry fruits. Drink now. NIS 45. Score 85. K

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Zarit, Single Vineyard, 2002: Dark cherry-red, this medium to full-bodied wine shows soft tannins and generous vanilla and smoky overtones. First impressions are of berries and eucalyptus, which yield to currants, vanilla, black tea and a light spiciness that lingers nicely on the moderately long finish. Warm, round and well balanced. Drink now-2008. NIS 95. Score 90. K

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Upper Galilee, Regional, 2003: Dark garnet red, with soft tannins already integrating nicely and showing off hints of spicy wood to support generous currant, cassis and wild berry fruits, which lead to a long, gently spicy finish. Best 2007-2009. NIS 65. Score 89. K

Carmel, Merlot, Upper Galilee, Regional, 2003: Blended with 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is deep garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with mouth-coating tannins integrating well to show appealing plum, wild berry and spicy oak, all with a pleasing hint of bitter-earthiness running through. Drink now-2008. NIS 65. Score 88. K