The delicate nature of kadaif noodles - flexible and long, like the hair of a noble white horse's tail - is what sets them apart from other kinds of dough for making pastries and desserts. The large amount of air trapped between the slender noodle threads is what gives the pastry its delectable lightness. Their desired crispiness is achieved thanks to coating the noodles on all sides with melted shortening, an action that is only partially possible in types of dough that get rolled out into a sheet. Kadaif noodles were originally made from semolina and water (today from white flour ), and were a common dish throughout the Levant.
Despite their slim shape, kadaif noodles are easy to make. In the past it was customary to make them on a large metal tray, which was heated over whispering coals. Skilled hands, whose craft was passed down through generations, would trickle the thin batter in a steady motion to create a thin and uniform stream over the piping hot tray. The batter that came into contact with the hot metal would be allowed to rest for a moment before being whisked out; a brief respite but sufficient to shrink the batter into a delicate and dry thread.
Kadaif noodles were served ceremoniously at festivities and weddings, coated in thick clarified butter and either baked or fried, filled with goat cheese, seasoned with rose water or a mixture of nuts, and accompanied by heated honey and kaymak, a rich cream topping. In Syria the pastry was traditionally filled with mashed ripe bananas.
Today kadaif noodles are made by a machine that simulates the age-old method almost exactly. The thin batter is poured through a strainer with slender holes or through a long thin funnel onto a blazing round hot plate, approximately 1.5 meters in diameter. The tray is heated by gas burners and spins on its axle like a record turntable. The centrifugal force causes the batter to shrink into threads. Quick hands gather up the noodles from the blistering tray into sheaths while they are still flexible and white. The kadaif threads are packaged immediately to keep the humidity in the air from turning them soggy, and then are usually frozen.
The correct way to work with kadaif noodles is to defrost them in the fridge, well wrapped, for two or more hours. Transfer the defrosted noodles to a big bowl and pull them apart quickly to keep them from drying out in a lump. Separating the noodles is necessary to ensure the airiness and crispiness that is so important to the success of this pastry.
After separating the noodles you add butter (preferably clarified ) or olive oil, and coat the noodles thoroughly in tossing them by hand. If you plan to use the noodles in sweet pastries you can coat them before baking with a mixture of butter and powdered sugar, instead of the simple syrup that is traditionally drizzled on after the baking. Noodles that are not in immediate use should be covered with a wet towel.
Leftover defrosted noodles should not be refrozen, but they will keep in the fridge, well wrapped, for up to about a week.
Kadaif noodles are available, usually frozen, at markets (Levinsky, Carmel, etc. ), specialty food stores (Lagaat Baochel, Spices ), Middle Eastern bakeries, and delicatessens.
Ground chicken, pistachios, and roasted sweet potato knafeh
Ingredients (6-8 servings):
2 cups (300 grams) sweet potato, peeled and cut into small cubes
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and black pepper
2 medium onions, diced
3 tablespoons canola or corn oil
500 grams ground boneless skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Pinch of cinnamon
Pinch of nutmeg
60 grams (5 tablespoons) roasted and chopped pistachios
2 tablespoons port wine
200 grams kadaif noodles
1/3 cup (80 milliliters) olive oil
Pinch of salt
Preparation:
Heat an oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Place the diced sweet potato in an oven dish, coat with olive oil, salt and black pepper. Roast for 15 minutes or until softened. In a 26-centimeter frying pan that can go in the oven, fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of neutral oil until softened and lightly browned. Add the ground chicken, and fry until you get a crumbly mixture and the meat is lightly browned. Season, add the pistachios, roasted sweet potatoes, and port wine, give it a mix and turn the fire off. In a large bowl, quickly pull apart the kadaif noodles. Coat them with olive oil and salt, and toss well. Flatten the noodles in an even layer on top of the chicken mixture in the frying pan, and bake for 20 minutes. Serve hot with seasoned tahini.
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