How the Humble Jewish Herring Became Haute American Cuisine

Jews from Eastern Europe brought the recipe to America, where it became a cheap protein; but the status of herring in the culinary world changed when the little fish made aliyah to Israel.

In 1907, 21-year-old Joel Russ arrived in New York’s Lower East Side. “If you asked him, he would say he came from the Austro-Hungarian Empire,”...