How the humble Jewish herring became haute American cuisine
Jews from Eastern Europe brought the recipe to America, where it became a cheap protein; but the status of herring in the culinary world changed when the little fish made aliyah to Israel.
In 1907, 21-year-old Joel Russ arrived in New York’s Lower East Side. “If you asked him, he would say he came from the Austro-Hungarian Empire,” his grandson Mark Russ Federman told me. “But in fact he was a poor Jew from a poor shtetl in Galicia.”
Vered Guttman is a caterer and a food writer based in Washington DC. Growing up in Israel she took her first lessons in Jewish cooking sitting at the tables of her two grandmothers, one from Poland, the other from Iraq. In Modern Manna, Vered will share a mix of new Israeli trends and old Jewish traditions, sprinkled with a distinct Sephardic flavor. Follow Vered on Twitter @veredguttman